Business of fashion

Bridging the 90s gap at Khaite AW22



Khaite AW22

“I aspire to look like a ‘90s-era Gap model,” Khaite’s Catherine Holstein told Business of Fashion at her AW22 New York Fashion Week show. It’s a handy descriptor, because 90s Gap was pretty special and there’s definitely a big 90s normcore mood pervading the air at the mo.

The AW22 Khaite show had a bit of that classic Gap energy mixed with 1990s Self Service magazine – all big leather jackets, small skirts, dark tights and light shoes. (more…)



Everybody wants to be Aimé Leon Dore



Aimé Leon Dore

Amazing really. There’s nothing fundamentally new about Aimé Leon Dore (chinos and varsity jackets – groundbreaking!), but the branding execution, styling, casting, collabs and community-building are masterful. It’s just had investment from LVMH and it seems to be the new preppy-revivalist playbook that everyone (read: Brooks Brothers, J Crew) is following closely.

The latest collection drops online at 11am EST tomorrow. (more…)



Ideas to steal from menswear aw22 street style



Acielle Style Du Monde Paris AW22 street style

Wow, menswear fashion week street style has moved on from the days of Pitti peacocks strutting in suits and monk-strap shoes. This season’s street style is as out there as you like, with mega oversized proportions (skinny jeans? We don’t know her!), clashing colours, skirts aplenty (layered over trousers) and supersized footwear, whether that’s chunky technical trainers or Rick Owens’ cult platforms*. (Do not talk to me about Crocs).

I’ve picked out the more subdued examples from Acielle’s beautiful shots. Key trends: visible-from-Mars MA1s and puffers (but more glam than gorpcore), elevated utilitarian headgear (balaclavas, bucket hats, beanies in outré colours and proportions), cross-body pouches (again, in the boldest, brightest interpretations) and most unexpected – neck ties! (more…)



Nino Cerruti style



Nino Cerruti

It’s not even the end of January and already fashion’s legends are crossing the great divide.

While the death of Andre Leon Talley has rightfully dominated the news (everyone it seems has a heartfelt story of his larger-than-life persona), another – more understated – style elder quietly passed away at the age of 91 last weekend. Nino Cerruti (affectionately known as Il Signor Nino) was the grandson of a textile entrepreneur, whose Cerruti 1881 brand was a mainstay of 80s menswear, pegged alongside Armani as the epitome of relaxed masculine elegance. In fact, Giorgio Armani cut his teeth at Cerruti in the 1960s before going on to start his own label. (more…)