Business of fashion

The culture of fashion: The 90s is officially vintage – here’s why that’s a good thing



Jil Sander 1990s

It recently dawned on me that the 1990s, the era that defined me, is properly vintage. While it’s a discombobulating thought (I mean, I don’t feel middle-aged), there are some positives. One is that the minimalist-slash-deconstructivist designers of the time – Margiela, Lang, Demeulemeester, Sander, Prada, Klein – have become established as classics and thus there’s a new market for them. (more…)



On my radar: Outsiders Store



Outsiders Store Coal Drops Yard

I was wondering why no-one had invented a stylish multi-brand gorpcore store, then I realised – they have. While visiting the Debby Byford roller skating exhibition in Coal Drops Yard, I discovered Outsiders Store, a very cool curation of performance outerwear, practical headgear, Rotato socks, Gramicci rope sandals, Snow Peak camping kit, plus a variety of modern outdoorism books and magazines like Les Others and Go Out. (more…)



Shop the post: Uniqlo x Theory



Uniqlo x Theory

I’ve been noticing Theory a bit more recently, with an eye on their basic trousers and knits particularly. I didn’t know Joe McKenna was styling their campaigns but now I do, I’m invested. (I found out via the #joemckenna hashtag on Insta; ‘following’ hashtags is a handy way to keep up with news on your favourite subjects.) Theory has also been on my radar lately since it cosied up more closely with its stable-mate Uniqlo. In London they’re sharing a new retail space in Regent Street, in the old Superdry building (next door to Burberry).

In tandem, the latest Uniqlo x Theory capsule collaboration* has just dropped. (more…)



The YouTube lifestyle sell-ebrities aren’t happy



Emma Chamberlain

“I just don’t like being famous. You’re lying to people to try to make them seem like you’re their friend for the sole purpose of selling things to them.”

This is a worthwhile read from Vox, on the tenuous career of YouTube influencers, of whom a minority make a profitable career from selling their lifestyle to followers, while the rest are burnt out, broke, cancelled and more. Read more here. (more…)