Business of fashion

The Burberry dilemma



Burberry AW23

Wow, London Fashion Week came back big time this season. Simone Rocha, S.S. Daley, JW Anderson and Moncler were the buzziest shows, but Burberry AW23* was the one with the highest expectations. Did it deliver? Hmmm, still not sure.

There were high hopes for a repeat of Daniel Lee’s work turning around Bottega Veneta. In particular, new CEO Jonathan Akeroyd is aiming to double Burberry’s leather business, so all eyes were on the bags. (more…)



The art of fashion in the Instagram age



Khaite store SoHo

There’s definitely a synergy between a certain type of upscale American designer and stores that think they’re art galleries. We’ve seen it from The Row, we saw it (briefly) from Raf-era Calvin Klein, and now it’s the turn of Khaite, whose first store opened last week in SoHo.

Think minimalist concrete walls, even minimalist-er merchandising (a lone dress on a rail), contemporary art touches and a general air of austere intimidation. Reader, I love it. (more…)



Phoebemania



Phoebe Philo Celine by Tommy Ton

ICYMI, the biggest buzz of fashion month is all about the return of Phoebe Philo. It has barely started and her new brand doesn’t launch until September, yet we can be certain this will be the topic du jour for the next four weeks.

While everyone seems to be banking on Celine mark II, I’m hoping for something more unexpected. (more…)



Into this: Bottega Veneta banal luxury



Bottega Veneta SS23 ad campaign

The new Bottega Veneta SS23 campaign just landed and I love it.

There’s a soothing video by Massimiliano Bomba shot in a slow-mo Milan streetscape serving everyday city life in the most fabulously chic way. (It’s a little bit Lemaire and a little bit Thomas Maier!)

The stills are also beautiful – elegant yet casual, styled by Alastair McKimm with the leather ‘denim’ jeans and white ultra-luxe vests centre stage, accessorised with slouchy Andiamo totes*. The no-make-up-make-up and minimally styled hair give the campaign a timeless quality and I’m glad that they resisted the urge to include obvious props like a Starbucks coffee or phone. (Wait, do Italians even drink Starbs?) In this case, less it more. Superbo! (more…)