long read

Inbox hero: why fashion founder Substacks are the new influencers



Amy Smilovic

It’s only taken oh, circa 15 years, but fashion brand founders (and creative directors) have finally twigged that they are their own best brand ambassadors.

From their first baby steps on Instagram, when the likes of Linda V Wright, Nili Lotan and Tibi founder Amy Smilovic (above) showed their faces and styling prowess, pro tastemakers have gifted their customers a ‘real way’ insight into clever wardrobe building, versatile styling and non-hard-sell (yet paradoxically seductive) selling.

And now they go even better. Substack is proving the perfect platform for sharing not just fashion how-tos but other lifestyle recommendations – from travel to food to business know-how. (more…)



The culture of fashion: Agnès B



Agnès b in the first Rue du Jour store in 1976

French Girl Style – it’s the aesthetic that just won’t stop giving. And with the Paris Olympics mere hours away, you’d better buckle up, as it’s about to become even more omnipresent. The reason French Girl Style aka garconne style resonates is its timelessness, its realness, and its rooted-in-utility-ness. Oh, and something else really important – culture.

And who better to illustrate this point than Agnès B? (more…)



The culture of fashion: Go to the Nightclub with silk shirts on



Ibiza 89 book by Dave Swindells

As Ibiza season kicks in, I’m reposting my article for Faith Fanzine that was originally published in print last summer. It seems the heady, hedonistic days of 80s rave and club culture are never far from a fashion designer’s moodboard. As photographer and former Time Out clubs editor Dave Swindells celebrates his fourth print run of photobook, IBIZA 89 (above), we mused on what the scene symbolised and why it’s an eternal source of style inspo (more…)



Shane Taylor: people-watching with a camera



Shane Taylor - Ritz Piccadilly

A few years ago, I started following Shane Taylor (aka @heroesforsale) on Instagram. His street photography focusing mostly on a pocket of Mayfair caught my attention; his captured gestures and poetic moments a nod to mid-century greats like Saul Leiter and Garry Winogrand. Originally from Tipperary, he arrived in London in 2019, immersing himself in the people-watching potential of its diverse inhabitants. Building an Instagram following, he branched out into Framelines, a YouTube channel, printed magazine and Patreon community with his co-pilot Josh Edgoose. And now he has co-curated the Street Life exhibition at David Hill Gallery in West London (more…)