Retail concepts

Trend report: What to wear for SS23



WWD backstage at Jil Sander SS23

Let’s say it now, there’s not a lot of newness around at the mo. The world’s in flux, designers are scared for their jobs, no one’s taking risks and the big brands especially just wanna sell. Who can blame them? BOF’s Angelo Flaccavento was maybe a bit harsh with his ‘clothes to die from not for’ (lol) summing up of MFW SS23, but he had a point. It’s a commercial season, so let’s just get that out of the way. Honestly, I’m not sad about the black-everything revival, I can’t complain about the loafer love-fest and as a New Luddite, it’s great to see women’s watches in the spotlight. Read on for my round-up of what I’ll be wearing and doing this season… (more…)



The art of fashion in the Instagram age



Khaite store SoHo

There’s definitely a synergy between a certain type of upscale American designer and stores that think they’re art galleries. We’ve seen it from The Row, we saw it (briefly) from Raf-era Calvin Klein, and now it’s the turn of Khaite, whose first store opened last week in SoHo.

Think minimalist concrete walls, even minimalist-er merchandising (a lone dress on a rail), contemporary art touches and a general air of austere intimidation. Reader, I love it. (more…)



The culture of fashion: I dress therefore I am



Georgia O'Keeffe by Bruce Weber

Favourite artist looks? I’ve had a few. Georgia O’Keeffe’s New Mexico minimalism; Warhol’s beatnik Bretons; Lucian Freud’s sweaters and Huntsman suits; not to mention Basquiat’s baggy 80s overcoats.

The New York Times has a great story about the rise of the artist as avatar. Namely, the merch-ification of artists, selling elements of their personal style – an Edward Hopper hat anyone? – alongside postcards in the gallery gift shop. (more…)



Positive fashion: Nike Re-Creation



Nike Re-Creation upcycled patchwork sweats

Two new initiatives on my radar in the repair and re-wear space.

Nike’s Re-Creation project upcycles deadstock and used clothing into new, lovingly crafted pieces where stains and holes are creatively transformed or carefully camouflaged (below). It’s not an entirely unique approach – lots of small start-ups have used this method – but the execution is more in line with my taste. (more…)