Menswear

NYFW SS26 notes



Coach ss26 neck purses backstage

New York Fashion Week: Not a huge amount to write home about, but a few details captured my attention…

Coach has hit its stride in recent seasons and I’m pleased for Stuart Vevers. He’s a nice guy and I think people conveniently forget that he elevated Loewe in the fashion space before Jonathan Anderson arrived. Anyway, at Coach SS26 (above and below) I liked the neck doodads – cute little pouches and pendants meant to symbolise sentimentality and New York mementos. Styled in combination with dishevelled, oversized silhouettes by appropriately youth-obsessed Olivier Rizzo, they should help attract the next generation of Coach handbag-toting customers.

Coach ss26
Coach ss26
Coach ss26

At Tory Burch SS26 (below) there was more sentimentality, with clothes resembling well-loved, favourite pieces, creased and crumpled, and accessorised with nostalgic trinkets, in particular beachy shell necklaces and earrings worn with drop-waist belted skirts and flapper-style dresses.
Tory Burch ss26
Tory Burch ss26

Toteme (below) got my vote for its skin-baring necklines (for us short neck girlies – thank you), a fab flat-front white pant and a nonchalant new bag, the Clip – a black croc-embossed top-handle transmitting chaotic, city-girl energy. For the record, Toteme bags are really nice and much better value than most It bags.
Toteme SS26
Toteme SS26Toteme SS26
Toteme SS26 Clip Bag
Toteme SS26

Finally, I think 90s minimalism may be giving way to preppy revivalism (yes, agaiiinnnnnn).

The choice in fashion seems to be either nostalgia or basic b jeans and vest tops (if Biz Sherbert’s on-campus youth report is anything to go by) and since America is the home of polo shirts, baseball caps, chinos and boat totes, it’s totally unsurprising they want to elevate this heritage. We’ve already seen former Polo Ralph Lauren creative director Michael Rider’s first look at Celine, early peeks of Jonathan Anderson’s preppy-fied Dior, and both Gap and J. Crew riding high again in public sentiment, while NYFW saw the runway relaunch of Ivy League haberdasher J.Press (a very literal iteration, complete with JFK Junior lookalike – below).
J Press by Greg Kessler/ KesslerStudio

Should you need more preppy references, pick up a copy of Bruce Weber’s newly released monograph, My Education. Let’s hope the kids pick up on this look but put a more contemporary and subversive spin on it, otherwise I fear we’re stuck with Brandy Melville and ballet flats forever.

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES:  Coach SS26 x 4; Tory Burch SS26 x 2; Toteme SS26 x 5; J. Press
NOTE: Most images are digitally enhanced. Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my privacy and cookies policy here

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On my radar: Soshiotsuki



Soshiostuki ss26

Congratulations to Soshi Otsuki, who just won the LVMH Prize.

Since launching as a menswear brand, Soshiotsuki, in 2015, his “distorted elegance” (also the name of his AW25 collection) in the tradition of Armani, Cerruti and even Studio Nicholson, now includes a number of women’s pieces.

To be specific, that means taking western men’s tailoring and filtering it through a Japanese lens – cardigan-soft fabrics, gentle gathering and draping, voluminous tailored trousers, enveloping knits – and juxtaposing them through careful styling. (more…)



Michael Rider’s Celine Spring 26: first impressions are in



Celine Spring 26 by Michael Rider

Sunday saw quite the buzz around the New New Celine show – the debut by Michael Rider, a well-liked alumnus of Phoebe Philo’s Celine, Nicholas Ghesquiere’s Balenciaga and Polo Ralph Lauren.

The result was – quelle surprise! – an amalgam of Ralph, Phoebe’s Celine and Hedi’s Celine. What does that look like? Classic Ralph-like preppy-isms (camel coats, primary colours, blazers and rugby shirts), Phoebe-era scarves and bags, and Hedi’s cool factor in the skinny pants (hated those!) and indie-Oxbridge haircuts. (more…)



What to steal from Saint Laurent menswear SS26



Saint Laurent men SS26 by Thierry Chesnot

It feels like my favourite moments of Paris Fashion Week men’s were the colour-drenched ones. Willy Chavarria’s saturated pinks, blues and yellows, and Saint Laurent’s nostalgic 70s Fire Island palette felt like a welcome answer-back to the monopoly of Cucinelli-meets-Piana muted neutrals. Add to that, deliberately skew-whiff styling (messy shirt collars at Dior, chappals and trackies at Prada) and the juxtaposition of casual with formal and there’s plenty of inspo to steal from the menswear rail. What’s more, you don’t have to wait till next summer, you can implement many of these ideas now… (more…)