Celine

NYFW SS26 notes



Coach ss26 neck purses backstage

New York Fashion Week: Not a huge amount to write home about, but a few details captured my attention…

Coach has hit its stride in recent seasons and I’m pleased for Stuart Vevers. He’s a nice guy and I think people conveniently forget that he elevated Loewe in the fashion space before Jonathan Anderson arrived. Anyway, at Coach SS26 (above and below) I liked the neck doodads – cute little pouches and pendants meant to symbolise sentimentality and New York mementos. Styled in combination with dishevelled, oversized silhouettes by appropriately youth-obsessed Olivier Rizzo, they should help attract the next generation of Coach handbag-toting customers. (more…)



On Tommy Ton and the nuance of street style



Tommy Ton is the gold standard of Fashion Week street style photography for me. I think it’s his attention to details – nuances, gestures – a real feeling for how people inhabit clothes* and not just the rent-a-hype characters.

I love the way he documented the models in Michael Rider’s debut Celine show in July. There’s so much styling in these detail shots, whoever thought of getting Tommy to capture them is a genius ( most likely, Michael tbh). Fashion always looks better in 3-d movement than those generic ’shot from the front’ catwalk pics. (more…)



Double happiness: two tees



Celine ss26 double tee

What’s with my fixation on doubling up? Last summer it was all about the unexpected appeal of the double shirt. This year I’ve mentioned short-sleeve tees layered over long-sleeve ones, a throwback to my late-80s proto-grunge era.

At Celine’s recent Spring 26 show (above and below), Michael Rider reminded me of another favourite pile-on look, the loose, layered short-sleeve tees – preferably tucked in and belted. (more…)



Michael Rider’s Celine Spring 26: first impressions are in



Celine Spring 26 by Michael Rider

Sunday saw quite the buzz around the New New Celine show – the debut by Michael Rider, a well-liked alumnus of Phoebe Philo’s Celine, Nicholas Ghesquiere’s Balenciaga and Polo Ralph Lauren.

The result was – quelle surprise! – an amalgam of Ralph, Phoebe’s Celine and Hedi’s Celine. What does that look like? Classic Ralph-like preppy-isms (camel coats, primary colours, blazers and rugby shirts), Phoebe-era scarves and bags, and Hedi’s cool factor in the skinny pants (hated those!) and indie-Oxbridge haircuts. (more…)