Great commentary by Vanessa Friedman in the FT on the trend for fashion short films. At Cannes we have the Oliver Dahan (director of La Vie En Rose) six-minute Dior movie starring Marion Cotillard. The online-only short has a thin plot, looks suitably lush and of-course features lots and lots of lovely product. It follows on the heels of the Chanel No 5 internet film starring Audrey Tautou – another big budget ad dressed up as a film. There’s no doubting the films are beautiful but are the punters fooled that they are art rather than commerce? Read the article here for Friedman’s verdict.
Business of fashion
Rumours are suggesting that fashion shows are well, going out of fashion. Blame the economy, blame the internet, the fact is that some designers are bailing out of the show circuit, leaving crater-sized holes in the international fashion week schedules. Is this a good thing? After all, it’s no surprise that fashion shows guzzle more money than Bernard Madoff, perhaps those funds could be put to more sensible use? But without fashion shows, what would Paris Hilton do for kicks? Here I present the argument for and against.
The drama! The excitement!
The clue is in the word ‘show’. Go to a Galliano, Chanel or McQueen show and you are in for a fabulous theatrical treat worthy of a gala night at the Royal Opera House. It’s all there – the anticipation, the pre-event people-watching, the fanfare of the show itself, the backstage drama, the music/hair/make-up/styling. The tears, the tantrums, the models! Not to mention the crackle of excitement when word gets out that Prince, Grace Jones or Michael Jackson is in the house. (Who can forget Julien MacDonald’s tacky but rather clever coup of a Jacko lookalike at his show many years ago? Or the legendary Philip Treacy shows featuring Grace Jones slithering down the catwalk to a techno soundtrack and rapturous applause?) If you’re lucky enough to get a ticket to a McQueen show you are very priviledged indeed. Whether or not the clothes are ‘you’, you are guaranteed a night to remember (and not just because of the 90-minute wait you will quite probably have to endure for the show to start).
Front row fun
No shows equals no front-row politics which means less fun for the rest of us. Because who doesn’t love to watch the mini soap operas unfolding before us as we decode the body language betwixt Miss-editor-of-a-glossy, Miss-WAG-in-training and Miss-too-cool-for-school-indie-pop-star all squashed on the same bench in full view of, well everyone?
I’m a celebrity (no, really I am)
Much as many a serious fashion editor hates celebrities (well wouldn’t you if you were trying to do your job and some B-lister delayed the show by pandering to the paps?) it must be acknowledged that celebs do have their uses. After all, if it wasn’t for the paid-for celeb attendance at certain shows (cough Miss Sixty cough), would the photographers even bother to cover them? And less publicity means fewer sales. On a wider scale, it could be argued that in recent years it’s the celebrities who have given fashion its huge following by the general public. So get rid of the shows and the celebs could well lose interest in Marc, Karl and Luella altogether.
All about the goody bags
Perhaps most importantly, if we have no shows then we certainly have NO USE FOR GOODY BAGS. Now this is serious stuff, no? For a seasoned show-goer, those little packages of hope that sit on our chairs provide a welcome respite to the grind of 9am-9pm toing and froing with nary a sandwich or a cup of tea to provide a break in the proceedings. At least a lovingly tissue-wrapped gift makes us feel like we really are wanted and cared-for (yes, we are that gullible, lack of food and sleep makes us feel a bit deluded).
The ‘presentation’ – it’s the new black
Yet on the flip side, there are many good reasons to jettison the show format. On the menswear front, this week Marni cut back its fashion show to a ‘presentation’. Definition: hot male models milling around amongst ‘guests’ sans catwalk, ie up close and personal. Er, what’s the problem? Presentations mean less hanging around, a better view of the clothes and a more civilised atmosphere. Sign me up immediately! Of course, they also mean rather dull hair/make-up/styling but if budgets are being slashed then I’m afraid it’s au revoir to expensive stylists and make-up artists.
The demise of the traditional show could lead to designers being more imaginative in how they present their collections. Stella McCartney was ahead of the curve last September when she showed her Adidas line on real athletes doing -gasp! – actual workouts. Although the photos don’t look quite as special in the runway reports, an attention-grabbing concept is still a plus. How nice to not know what to expect until you get there, rather than steeling yourself for the inevitable cold, derelict warehouse slap bang in the middle of nowheresville.
Let’s meet in the middle
Which brings me neatly to my biggest point in the debate. Ultimately, fewer shows mean less hanging around and pavement-pounding and potentially more time at my desk Getting Work Done. People forget that fashion editors still have a department to run and that magazines don’t stop functioning simply because the show circus is in town. So to conclude, how about a compromise? The big guns – Dior, Armani, Louis Vuitton – who can pull the celebs and supermodels could show in the mornings while the smaller labels could have presentations, parties, videos, soirees – whatever cool, innovative ‘happening’ they can think up. This would keep the buzz going, keep the foreign press/buyers in attendance (Brit designers do put on the best parties, no contest) and keep the designers in the news (celebs love a fashion party even more than a show). And of course, most importantly, we could carry on the tradition of the Goody Bag. There you have it, problem solved.
NEIMAN MARCUS PLANS SHOWS TO ENTICE TOP CUSTOMERS TO BUY NEW LINES AT FULL PRICE
Upscale retailer Neiman Marcus Group Inc is to set up special trunk shows and meetings with designers for its best customers in a bid to get them to buy new fashion items at full price.
Engaging Neiman’s core, wealthy customers are the retailer’s “best chance of turning the tide” of deep discounts that is drowning company profits, chief executive Burt Tansky said yesterday.
“The challenge that we have is to get the customer back into the store to buy at full price, because none of us can continue to sell at promotional prices and deep discounts,” Tansky told the National Retail Federation annual convention in New York. “First of all, there’s no advantage to it. Second of all it leads to hell … and it’s got to stop.”
Privately-held Neiman Marcus is testing several marketing ideas across its 40 signature stores, including bringing in groups of 20-30 shoppers for special events, Tansky said.
“We have a number of things going on and already we are starting to understand that our customer, the affluent customer, will come into the stores if we create the right environment,” he said. He noted that some clients said they felt uncomfortable “shopping ostentatiously… Our challenge is to break through that mindset”.
The LFW tents were awash with eco cotton totes and quite honestly, I think I’ve had enough. I’ve been using my own eco tote (OK, it’s not organic but it gets lots of use) all week – not out of concern for my carbon footprint but because I genuinely love this well-worn bag, bought on my first trip to NYC fourteen years ago at The Strand Book Store. I love the colour, the font, the fact that it holds memories and the fact that it’s a great size and looks better the shabbier it gets.
In the last year or so I’ve lost count of how many cotton totes I’ve been given at various press days, shop launches and fashion shows. What does one do with them? I’ve never got this thing about using them for groceries because my grocery shopping involves several big bags, not the odd baguette and a newspaper, and I don’t have enough shoulders to carry my weekly shop in those canvas totes. Plus, I know it’s not PC but I need those plastic Sainsburys carriers – I re-use them for my rubbish! What does everyone else do with these eco totes? Are you using them all?