15 November, 2024

Trend report: What to wear for AW24

Shops are back! Cash is cool! Corporate-core is a vibe! It’s like the 2020s never happened lol. Sweats, leggings and Crocs have been demoted and tailoring and tactile tops have regained their position in the corner office for AW24. And with the global slowdown of luxury, we’re also witnessing the demise of loud logos on clothes and accessories. Instead, discreet luxury totes whisper subtle brand codes (the Toteme ‘T’!) and it’s grocery stores and ‘hypebeast snacks’ that are the new entry-level status signifiers. Oh, and high-end lipstick is the eternal ‘affordable luxury’ treat for uncertain times. Because some things never change… (more…)

Disneyrollergirl 0 Comments Beauty, Brands, Business of fashion, Design, Fashion shows, Films, News, Retail concepts, Shopping, Trends AW24, beauty, Dries Van Noten, exhibitions, Gucci, Lemaire, long read, Mouki Mou, Perfumer H, Prada, retail news, shopping, Sporty & Rich, Studio Nicholson, trends

25 September, 2024

The Bally formula

Bally SS25

“Dadaism was about a sense of play, and gentle subversion. What I’m looking for is finding equilibrium between rationality and whimsy.”

Bally was one of my MFW SS25 highlights. This is a masterclass in brand coding, when the pieces themselves are twisted classics rather than wholly avant-garde. Simone Bellotti knows the formula – simple pieces can be given romance, decadence, edginess etc with interesting casting, unexpected hair or makeup, memorable music (Bellotti worked with Swiss artist Aisha Devi on a bespoke soundtrack) and a clever incorporation of house codes.

Thus his new motif, the Swiss cowbell has become a recurring decorative feature on shoes and bags, he is building a recognisable colour palette of cool primaries with neutrals (black, brown), he is owning the Mary Jane, and the leather coat is becoming a new Bally wardrobe staple. (more…)

Disneyrollergirl 0 Comments Beauty, Brands, Design, Designers, Fashion shows, Menswear, News, Trends Bally, designers, Simone Bellotti, SS25, trends

13 September, 2024

Fear of God AW24

90s Armani is on everybody’s mood board right now and I’m not too upset about it. At Fear of God it’s been given an oversized mid-2020s twist but that’s fine by me.

Although… if somebody (Fear of God, Arket, COS, or just… anyone) could please think of the short girls and create an oversize silhouette in ‘petite’ sizes, I’d buy the whole lot. Just a thought. (more…)

Disneyrollergirl 2 Comments Ad campaigns, Brands, Design, News, Trends Armani, AW24, design, Fear of God, trends

10 September, 2024

Celine Homme SS25: The Bright Young

Celine Homme SS25

I know it’s all about New York SS25 womenswear, but my head is in Paris SS25 menswear. Specifically Hedi Slimane’s latest Celine outing, ‘The Bright Young’. Shot in the manicured grounds of Holkham, Norfolk, Hedi Slimane is suggesting equally manicured, floppy-fringed, toff-chic in stripe-edged blazers, cashmere cricket whites, short shorts and red knee-high socks.

Some critics on The Fashion Spot complained that the English public* school sartorial references were too literal. But as someone around the same age as Hedi, I’d say it’s just an acknowledgement of an era you’re very familiar with and perhaps nostalgic for. (We could call it ‘Merchant-Ivory-core’). (more…)