Simone Bellotti

Cold eroticism at Jil Sander SS26



Jil Sander ss26

In the absence of a ticket, I watched Simone Bellotti’s debut SS26 show on YouTube. As one of 13 key designer debuts this season, it’s one of the first shows that will be discussed big. Coming from a very critically successful few seasons at Bally, Bellotti has engineered a lot of good feeling from the press.

I loved this debut. It felt stripped back to the spare linear silhouettes of OG Jil Sander, with a pure colour palette that nodded to Raf-era. Within that I particularly liked the cold eroticism of Lucio Fontana-esque cutaway slashes in the skirts and cut-out back details, unexpected pops of silver, some great bags and the flat shoes. (more…)

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Music is the answer: Simone Bellotti’s ‘lyrical restraint’ at Jil Sander



Simone Bellotti Jil Sander film
Fashion and music are intertwined for me. I’ve always thought that the best fashion shows also have the best music. This first look at Simone Bellotti’s new vision of Jil Sander leans heavily on music, so that’s already a potential win. And I’m loving the idea of ‘lyrical restraint’, as Vogue Business describes his approach.

Ahead of his first Jil Sander show in September, Bellotti has released Wanderlust, an ethereal teaser film of atmospheric town-to-country vignettes located in Hamburg and set to Bochum Welt’s melodic electronic soundtrack. It’s romantic, austere and elegant all at once. (more…)

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Random Recs: Jony Ive, Centre Commercial Outdoor, Gauthier Borsarello



Richard Avedon In The American West

A few snippets of digital ephemera and IRL recommendations I’ve enjoyed lately…

1/ JONY IVE’S SEXY AI. If anyone can make A.I sexy, maybe it’s Jony Ive, whose company IO is being sold to OpenAI to create desirable devices (think pendants, eyewear…) for the age of AGI (artificial general intelligence). Read more in the NYT (gift link). (more…)

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The Bally formula



Bally SS25

“Dadaism was about a sense of play, and gentle subversion. What I’m looking for is finding equilibrium between rationality and whimsy.”

Bally was one of my MFW SS25 highlights. This is a masterclass in brand coding, when the pieces themselves are twisted classics rather than wholly avant-garde. Simone Bellotti knows the formula – simple pieces can be given romance, decadence, edginess etc with interesting casting, unexpected hair or makeup, memorable music (Bellotti worked with Swiss artist Aisha Devi on a bespoke soundtrack) and a clever incorporation of house codes.

Thus his new motif, the Swiss cowbell has become a recurring decorative feature on shoes and bags, he is building a recognisable colour palette of cool primaries with neutrals (black, brown), he is owning the Mary Jane, and the leather coat is becoming a new Bally wardrobe staple. (more…)

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