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Random recs: a Phoebe store, the Versace exhibition, Conde Nast-algia and my summer Supergas



Phoebe Philo store Carlos Place

A few snippets of digital ephemera and IRL recommendations I’ve enjoyed lately…

1/ PHOEBE PHILO (above) is returning to Mayfair. I confess I’ve found it harder to engage with Phoebe’s brand without the traditional catwalk show, look book images, or physical retail. So having an IRL store in London is welcome news. (more…)



Random recs: a Dior watch party, narrative vintage curators, early Hockney, and customer service ‘sludge’



TURN

A few snippets of digital ephemera and IRL recommendations I’ve enjoyed lately…

1/ HURS on how intuitive storytelling and themed curation make for a funner vintage shopping experience (top). (more…)



Michael Rider’s Celine Spring 26: first impressions are in



Celine Spring 26 by Michael Rider

Sunday saw quite the buzz around the New New Celine show – the debut by Michael Rider, a well-liked alumnus of Phoebe Philo’s Celine, Nicholas Ghesquiere’s Balenciaga and Polo Ralph Lauren.

The result was – quelle surprise! – an amalgam of Ralph, Phoebe’s Celine and Hedi’s Celine. What does that look like? Classic Ralph-like preppy-isms (camel coats, primary colours, blazers and rugby shirts), Phoebe-era scarves and bags, and Hedi’s cool factor in the skinny pants (hated those!) and indie-Oxbridge haircuts. (more…)



On Willy Chavarria SS26, refined subversion and a menswear succession moment



Willy Chavarria SS26

“I’m not interested in luxury as a symbol of privilege. I’m interested in luxury as a symbol of truth in one’s own character. Exquisite tailoring and craftsmanship worn to elevate one’s personal intent — that’s power. That’s fashion.” Willy Chavarria, SS26

Boy, was I fortunate to see this quote in action last Friday, from my Paris menswear front row seat at Salle Pleyel. From the sober-but-powerful opening scene (to José Feliciano’s California Dreamin’) of 35 men in long white tees, shorts and socks, referencing the recent dehumanisation of U.S immigrants in Salvadoran prisons, the collection then went on to exuberantly reflect Chavarria’s personal exploration of identity, resistance and “refined subversion”. (more…)