Hedi Slimane gets a lot of hate, but generally I’m a fan. His latest Celine AW20 collection got criticised for its predictability – bourgeois rock ‘n’ roll again?! But you can’t deny, up close the pieces are immaculately cut and have that forever classicism that’s in keeping with today’s anti fast-fashion mood. (I’m not quite ready to embrace the fashion rental movement; I’m a keep-forever kinda girl.)
“It’s very sad news, I have always thought that The Horse Hospital is perfect for Roger and for The Contemporary Wardrobe Collection, it’s hard to imagine the clothes in any other setting. Contemporary Wardrobe is the real deal, it’s authentic… it has never let me down.” Stylist, fashion director and filmmaker, Joe McKenna
A London cultural landmark is under threat. The Horse Hospital, a historic old stable in a cobbled mews behind Russell Square station is a bit of a gem. It has been for 27 years. It’s a not-for-profit arts venue that holds exhibitions for London’s displaced artists and also houses an incredible costume archive. But maybe not for much longer. (more…)
The one show that dominated my NYFW social feeds? The Row AW20. One wag described it as “the same collection I’ve been seeing for the last six seasons.” No matter; its predictable self-assured minimalism and quiet tailoring offer something of a sartorial salve in troubled times. And after all, anti-fashion is the new Fashion. (Or something.) Highlights were the floor-nuzzling trench coats, collarless boxy jackets and full-legged pants. Plus more rollnecks layered under unadulterated shirting (also trending this season, fyi). (more…)
While many say that commercial ‘seasons’ are redundant, I still get new season vibes just before Fashion Week. I think it makes me focused on the newness out there, plus the days are getting longer and I just want to let the light in my life, dammit!
However, new season to me rarely means a total ‘in then out’ about turn from the previous season. That kind of thinking has become outmoded lately anyway, as desirability has become “decoupled from consumption and coupled with knowledge, a story, belonging, and transformative potential to make us better humans.” Instead, this new season edit is an excuse to fill any gaps with updates rather than total novelty. Here’s what’s on my radar for SS20…
1/ UNDONE TRENCH. Trench coats for spring? Clearly not ground-breaking, but I like the new relaxed, slouchy macs and trenches, designed less for harsh weather and more for wearing undone whilst sipping a matcha latte al fresco. (more…)
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