Design

We need to talk about Virgil Abloh for Louis Vuitton SS19



Virgil Abloh Louis Vuitton SS19 via AP

As debuts go, the Virgil Abloh Louis Vuitton SS19 show got all of the buzz and all of the love. The show sounds like a total emosh-fest, with Virgil and Kanye openly bawling all over each other at the finale. I wasn’t there but I saw it on the ‘Gram, which these days practically amounts to the same thing.

My verdict? It would have benefited with a much tighter edit. (more…)



Dries van Noten has sold to Puig



Dries van Noten AW18 by Sonny Vandevelde

My WhatsApp has been abuzz with the news that Dries van Noten has sold a majority share of his company to Spanish luxury group, Puig.

Dries has famously said that he loves the size of his company, having independent control and isn’t interested in vast expansion. He is respected for not pandering to the fast cycle of fashion and arguably, the appeal of his clothes is that they’re designed with an individual point of view, they age with you and become part of your look. (more…)



Are expensive jeans worth it?



Toogood denim

Jeans. So utilitarian. So egalitarian. Yet so bloody difficult to nail! Are expensive jeans worth it? Should you pay more then £100 for a pair? Surely denim is considered a workwear fabric, ergo it should be cheap as chips. Yes, but no.

There’s denim and then there’s denim. Japanese denim is beautiful – dense, dark, rigid but made in Japan so relatively expensive. Stretch denim to me is not really denim. (It’s usually cheap and prone to sagging, and don’t get me started on jeggings.) And modern mass produced denim is nothing compared to vintage denim. (more…)



The DRG retail index: Nyden’s tribes, H&M’s modestwear, Jigsaw’s new destination, Zara’s robots



Fornasetti display at The Shop at Bluebird concept store Covent Garden

Here’s our latest monthly retail round up celebrating experimentalism and innovation on the high street. From the latest social campaigns to exciting new collections and retail formats, we’re watching – and shopping.

/NYDEN’S INFLUENCER DESIGN ROSTER

Nyden Dua Lipa

Just when you thought influencer-commerce had had its day, something new comes along.

H&M’s newest ‘streetwear’ brand, /Nyden had a soft launch (on social media anyway) back in February, with email teasers sent out to early adopters talking about ‘tribe building’ and rewards for your community. Now we see why. With seasonless drop-culture at the heart of the influencer-slash-celebrity themed collection, H&M is pitching /Nyden as a community brand. Via collaborations with music or sports talents (more…)