Design

First impressions: Riccardo Tisci for Burberry SS19



Burberry ss19 by Jamie Stoker for Vogue International

First impressions of Ricccardo Tisci for Burberry SS19 aka New Burberry? I thought he was very smart to open on those super grown up, chic, gentlewomanly pieces. Gorgeous honey-coloured trench coats with silky pleat skirts and scarf-style blouses, worn with elegant leather waist bags and stilettos. So not what we expected!

I noted that the younger models struggled on those pin heels (well they have been wearing Nikes for the last five years) but the supermodels (Stella, Natalia, Mariacarla et al) walked with grace and purpose. There was a little bit of Burberry check, but executed in a nuanced, respectful way, rather than the brash check of last season. (more…)



London Fashion Week for the people



Anya Hindmarch London Fashion Week

Fashion Week for press and VIPs really does seem to be a thing of the past these days. The best shows always seem to have an element of public spectacle – whether that’s Virgil Abloh’s debut as Louis Vuitton’s menswear creative director (for which he invited hundreds of fashion students to watch) or Martine Rose’s Camden street show, which was literally staged in a residential street, with all the neighbours watching.

This week’s London Fashion Week SS19 shows coincide with the London Design Festival, which means retailers have the spotlight on both fashion and interior design. (more…)



Gentlewoman style: the menswear edit



matches andrygyne disneyrollergirl

Are trends irrelevant? I think not. We still like to have a bit of a directional steer when we shop, otherwise it’s just a wall of product. For me, I have my perennial go-to trends that swing in and out of popularity. At the moment, ‘gentlewoman style’ is in, that borrowed-from-menswear-but-softened-up look epitomised by Phoebe Philo, Rejina Pyo and Louise Trotter (recently departed from Joseph). (more…)



Is it too soon for beauty advent calendars?



Castelbajac X L'OCCITANE Classic Advent Calendar

This time every year we have this dilemma about whether it’s too early to discuss Christmas. But, hey, we need something to look forward to, right? The press got a first look at all the gifty launches a month or so ago (in a month-long junket known as ‘Christmas In July’) and so we’ve seen all there is to see of advent calendars, gift selection sets and the like already.

Beauty advent calendars still seems to have plenty of mileage in them (read my post on the business of advent calendars and beauty subscription boxes here) and brands and retailers are having to up their game in order to stand out. (more…)