SS21

Sunday worship: Margaret Howell SS21



Margaret Howell SS21 LOOK 23

This weekend I would usually be darting across the four corners of London to see what Fashion Week had to offer. Not so this season, which means for once I got to have a lie in on my birthday! But it also means I’ll miss my favourite LFW ritual, congregating on the Sunday worship benches of the Margaret Howell show at Ballet Rambert on the South Bank. Here I’d normally huddle in a sea of buff trench coats with Alyson, Brittany, Dal and Alexis, to appraise next season’s stylistic nuances, while catching up on industry (both fashion and publishing) goss.

In lieu of a Margaret Howell show, we have look book pictures. (more…)



SS21 trend report: What will our ‘New Look’ look like?



Christian Siriano SS21

I feel rather disconnected from Fashion Month this season but this image caught my attention.

It’s last Thursday’s Christian Siriano SS21 show and the colours, plus olde worlde Slim Aaron’s-esque glamour (tempered with the now-normal sight of a Covid mask), place it firmly in the space of aspirational longing. Longing for parties, whimsy and unbridled joy instead of caution and pragmatism.

My overarching goal for following the SS21 shows is to understand what ‘fashion’ is going to look like for all of us for the next few years. (more…)



Louis Vuitton menswear summer 2021 goes ‘seasonless’



Louis Vuitton menswear Summer 2021 Virgil Abloh

An interesting concept from Virgil Abloh for his Louis Vuitton menswear Summer 2021 collection.

Shown in Shanghai this week, his ‘seasonless’ strategy mixes past looks with new on the same runway. “This is debuting my future format of shows,” he told WWD. “We as humans want new things, we always want to go forward; the newest, fastest, shiniest things…[But] if my collection I debuted in January I believed in, by the time it gets to July, I still believe in it. It’s not that it’s so old that it can’t be seen ever again. I’m questioning that system by proposing that my collections are all as one.” Fair play! (more…)



The culture of fashion: Dior SS21 menswear ‘portrait of an artist’



Dior SS21 men Amoako Boafo

Some more menswear SS21 highlights. On the maximalist craft tip, Dior hit the top notes again with a fab collab with Ghanaian artist Amoako Boafo. (See the collection video here.)

Dior’s creative director Kim Jones first met him last year during Art Basel Miami. Boafo was the artist in residence of the new Rubell Museum, opposite Dior’s fall show venue. As Jones’ artist collaborations are now a mainstay of his collections (tying in nicely with Mr Dior’s gallerist past), it made perfect sense for the two to collaborate. Jones already has a connection to Africa having grown up in the continent, while Boafo has a connection to fashion, with his fantastically wardrobed portrait sitters always dressed in attention-grabbing prints and colour combinations. (more…)