4 July, 2025

On Willy Chavarria SS26, refined subversion and a menswear succession moment

Willy Chavarria SS26

“I’m not interested in luxury as a symbol of privilege. I’m interested in luxury as a symbol of truth in one’s own character. Exquisite tailoring and craftsmanship worn to elevate one’s personal intent — that’s power. That’s fashion.” Willy Chavarria, SS26

Boy, was I fortunate to see this quote in action last Friday, from my Paris menswear front row seat at Salle Pleyel. From the sober-but-powerful opening scene (to José Feliciano’s California Dreamin’) of 35 men in long white tees, shorts and socks, referencing the recent dehumanisation of U.S immigrants in Salvadoran prisons, the collection then went on to exuberantly reflect Chavarria’s personal exploration of identity, resistance and “refined subversion”. (more…)

Disneyrollergirl 6 Comments Brands, Business of fashion, Design, Designers, Fashion shows, Magazines, Menswear, Music, News, Trends fashion shows, Giorgio Armani, long read, menswear, models, Omahyra Mota, Ralph Lauren, SS26, trends, Willy Chavarria

21 May, 2025

Into this: Gap x Dôen

Gap x Doen Kirsty Hume

Has Gap finally nailed it? Since Zac Posen took up his mission-almost-impossible post as creative director last year, all eyes have been fixed on the revival. Don’t we all want Gap to succeed? I do.

And this collab with Californian sisters Dôen looks to be a winner. (more…)

Disneyrollergirl 0 Comments Ad campaigns, Brands, Business of fashion, Design, News, Shopping ad campaigns, Clara Balzary, collabs, Doen, Gap, Kirsty Hume, models, shopping, SS25, Zac Posen

14 May, 2025

In defence of muted majesty at the Met

Imaan Hammam Met Gala

Had to hard disagree with Bonnie Morrison (on Fashion People) who asserted that the less ‘colourful’ looks at last week’s Met Gala didn’t meet the brief.

Au contraire!

My favourite looks included Imaan Hammam’s zoot suit-esque realness (by Magda Butrym, above) (more…)

Disneyrollergirl 0 Comments Brands, Design, Designers, Events, News Andre Walker, Bonnie Morrison, Fear of God, Iman Hammam, Lewis Hamilton, Met Ball, models, Vogue, Wales Bonner

14 February, 2024

Miuccia Prada is a Vogue cover girl

Miuccia Prada Vogue March cover 24

UK Vogue had 40 celebs on its cover, but US Vogue has Miuccia Prada. I know which one I’m more thrilled about!

TBF, I don’t get excited about Vogues these days, but I do love a Miuccia profile. The cover is fresh and casual and of course I’m loving the inside shots of Mrs Prada (as she prefers to be known) in her uniform of prim skirt, boxy short sleeve knit and trademark slither of white tee to uplight the face. (more…)