Orange has been declared the ‘it’ colour for SS11. But I say why wait? Why not start rocking orange now, in a delicious, red-tinged version of the hue for cold days and pumpkin tones for toasty gatherings round the radiator log fire?
5 ways to wear orange now:
1) A fiery orangey-red matt lip. For Ohne Titel SS11, Gucci Westman used Revlon’s Super Lustrous Lipstick in Siren, available from the Fire & Ice collection this November.
The last day of LFW is menswear day. Some see this as not worth bothering with but I beg to differ. As much as I appreciate good design and admire the work of our young womenswear designers, most of them are far too polished and feminine to appeal to me as a consumer. Being all about the perfect jean and a well-cut sweater, when I look at the mens shows, I look at them with a female ‘what can I steal for myself?’ eye. Thankfully, some of the menswear designers also show womenswear (thank you J.W. Anderson), while others come up small enough for women to steal (Topman and Mr Hare). Sibling tell me that their imminent womens line for Topshop will still have the boyish flavour of the menswear, but to suit girls.
Another plus point of the mens shows is it’s a generally smaller, friendlier, less stressy affair. The Fashion East hut was like a full-on garden party by lunch time, with scorching sun, booze and a live jazz band in the midst of it all. My favourite bits:
*Sibling designer Sid’s Mr Hare cuban heel boots. Their knitwear wasn’t bad either, with its signature pop-art graphics and a new collab with art stars Tim Noble and Sue Webster. There was also a rather fine accompanying Alasdair McLellan video…
*Katie Eary’s riot of mohair stripes, animal-print, tartan and studs, all wrapped up in a live boxing match with Olympic gold medallist boxer James Degale. Bruce Weber shoot, anyone?
*Marc Hare’s dandyish footwear (which starts at a size five, so with the help of an insole or two I reckon I could just about pull off). SS11 is heavy on ‘replenishable skins’, including ostrich, salmonskin and eelskin
*Boyo fanzine pop-up shop. Pardon me for not being au faitwith Boyo, a fanzine created by Patrick Waugh, the very affable creative director of Pop. His vanity project resulted in a one day pop-up shop showcasing the fanzines, his T-shirt collection and some bandanas. Because, well, why on earth not?
When I attended Net-a-Porter’s infamous Denim Boutique launch back in June, one of the nuggets of news I picked up was its prediction for the Next Big Jean Shape. Denim and casualwear buyer Ben Matthew’s description of J Brand’s Gigi was “a cropped kick flare that hits just above the ankle before flaring out slightly”, which I have to say, did not appeal. It sounded a bit too much like Celine’s icky, tricky flood-length pant to me.
But how wrong I was. Just launched, the J Brand Gigi is a mid-rise skinny cut with the weeniest hint of a flare. Really not ‘booty’ at all. And I can see it looking very uptown with my Rupert Sanderson nude patent Veritys (the only heels that I can walk in) or ancient vintage Charles Jourdan little black kitten heels – plus a little boy shirt and my black pebbled Chanel tote. Apparently there’s a waiting list already. Of course there is.
It’s good to see utilitarian looks being given a bit of extra snazz. Joe Casely-Hayford has revived the John Moore Paragon boot (cult 80s-90s work boot with commando sole and assorted rugged straps), introducing a 12-hole version. I have the originals which get many admiring glances but the Casely-Hayfords (below) are sadly only for guys at this stage. (Read the John Moore story over at Style Salvage.) Meanwhile, JW Anderson’s heavy metal-adorned work boots (below) are accompanied by an equally hefty studded sock. I think these are mens too but I believe there may be smaller sizes available. I’m seeing these juxtaposed with khaki army surplus trousers (khaki and red, mmmmm) and a silk bourgeois blouse or Equipment shirt. Shoe designers: let’s have more of these in lady sizes please…
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