26 February, 2021

Udjat for Harper’s Bazaar Arabia

Udjat Harper's Bazaar Arabia

One of my great discoveries of the year so far: an Egyptian brand called Udjat.

I was commissioned by Harper’s Bazaar Arabia to write about this fantastic new line, which celebrates the culture and craft of Egypt through fashion and home objects. The co-founder Louis Barthélemy is a very interesting character, something of a polymath, who has created textile designs for Gucci, Salvatore Ferragamo and Dior (check out his incredible art here). But the Udjat collection grabbed my attention with its relaxed shirt shapes, intricate embroidery and wonderful photography. (more…)

Disneyrollergirl 0 Comments Art, Brands, Design, Designers, Magazines, News craft, Harper's Bazaar Arabia, Louis Barthélemy, magazines, Udjat

13 February, 2021

The ‘nouveau romance’ of Celine menswear AW21

Celine men winter 21

Chapeaus off to GQ’s Rachel Tashjian, who wrote this very astute critique of Hedi Slimane’s latest Celine menswear collection. And the brand’s overall current appeal.

“His clothing is probably the most intelligently merchandised stuff on the planet. He is making clothes to sell them, proving with every one of his choices why you need them…When you go into a Celine shop, or look at the brand’s e-commerce, you see something so clear and intelligent it might make you mad at other big fashion brands: a few perfect blazers, a leather motorcycle jacket, a leather blouson, a suede trucker jacket, and so on. All the pants are just right. The loafers, sneakers, and boots are just the kind you’re looking for when you don’t know what you’re looking for. Slimane is actually thinking about someone going into a store to buy clothing. What might they want?” (more…)

Disneyrollergirl 0 Comments Brands, Business of fashion, Design, Designers, Fashion shows, Films, Menswear, News, Trends AW21, Business of Fashion, Celine, GQ, Hedi Slimane, menswear, Rachel Tashjian

6 February, 2021

Pieter Mulier to Maison Alaïa

Pieter Mulier creative director Alaïa ss22

Some exciting news on the designer front. Pieter Mulier, the one-time secret weapon of Raf Simons (who can forget his stand out supporting role in Dior & I?) has been appointed creative director at Alaïa.

This sounds like an excellent appointment, with Mulier promising to retain Azzedine Alaïa’s “legacy of celebrating femininity and placing women at the heart of creation”, hopefully with a modern hand. I imagine Richemont will expect a big ROI with fulsome collections of clothes, accessories (and maybe even beauty?) but hopefully they can also find a way to imbue some of the slower pace Alaïa was known for with his ‘it comes when it comes’ schedules. (more…)

Disneyrollergirl 2 Comments Brands, Business of fashion, Design, Designers, Films, News Azzedine Alaia, Business of Fashion, designers, Dior & I, films, luxury, Pieter Mulier, Raf Simons, Richemont

5 February, 2021

Aldo Cipullo – making jewellery modern

Cartier by Tina Tyrell for Harper's Bazaar

I noticed that Cartier is spotlighting its classics archive, an unsurprising move as customers are feeling the pinch and prefer to invest in long-time keepables. Good timing then for this beautiful new Assouline book* on Aldo Cipullo, who was responsible for such cornerstone pieces as Cartier’s Love* and Juste Un Clou bracelets.