Designers

R.I.P Virgil, passer of the flame



Virgil Abloh Louis Vuitton

“I don’t come from where I’m supposed to come from. So I have to prove that this is design, that this is art, that this is valid.”
Virgil Abloh

Sad times in fashion. The news of Virgil Abloh’s untimely passing (from a private 2-year rare cancer illness) rocked the fashion world this week. But also created shock waves beyond. A pop culture icon whose influence stretched way past the boundaries of the catwalk, Virgil epitomised the modern-day Renaissance man who created product, music, happenings, communities and perhaps most importantly, the myth of the man himself.

Despite all the post-mortem plaudits, as a designer, he was polarising. (more…)

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Death to minimalism?



The Row SS22

I’ve finished digesting all the SS22 collections and I think we can safely say we’re over the 2010s obsession with #oldceline-style ‘minimalism’.

I say ‘we’, but I don’t mean me.

Personally, I’m still here for what I call gentlewoman style; aka timeless pieces that straddle what we like to consider ‘masculine’ (tailoring, functionality) and ‘feminine’ (decoration, softness) dressing. I will never get bored of my baggy chinos and boyfriend 501s, Dries snakeskin boots, Equipment shirts and merino crew necks.

Professionally, yes it’s more exciting to write about the elaborate, hedonistic and whimsical and I’m tempted to bust out my Prada lip-print mules and Sergio Rossi raspberry moiré-silk heels. Schiaparelli was undeniably a Fashion Month highlight, as was Dries van Noten’s kaleidoscopic colour-fest. But it’s also fine by me if people (read: under 30s) would rather switch the Arket blazers and Acne knits for first wave reality TV garb à la The Simple Life-era low-rise jeans and triangle bandeau tops. (Uggs on the other hand? Not even Telfar* can tempt me to go there.) (more…)

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At Miu Miu SS22 normcore meets corporatecore – complete with New Balance 574s



Miu Miu SS22

Loved the subverted normcore-meets-corporatecore vibes at Miu Miu SS22. The perfect coat, chinos, shorts, button downs and New Balance trainers, all in deconstructed proportions and styled with Miuccia-approved grey socks. And for after work, the chicest appliqued silk skirt suits and shift dresses.

Vogue described it as a ‘back-to-work wardrobe for the post-pandemic age’. As discussed here a year ago and again a couple of months ago, it’s a sign that young office workforce enterers want their slice of the corporate-wear life – but make it Fashion. (more…)

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