Business of fashion

Bode just unveiled its vison for womenswear



Bode AW23 womenswear - Ssense

There was a big post-show buzz around the Bode AW23 show during men’s Fashion Week in Paris. For the first time. Emily revealed her ambition for womenswear; not a ‘feminised’ take on her menswear as one might expect but a fully realised vision that riffed off early 20th century glamour, incorporating familial storytelling (of course) and handcrafted embellishment.

It got rave reviews, although I felt the styling of the menswear was more eclectic. My highlights: an equestrian-themed applique jacket, hand-knit embroidered sweaters and gloves, a perfect shawl-collared tuxedo and the men’s T-bars and Mary Janes. (more…)



Positive fashion: Nike Re-Creation



Nike Re-Creation upcycled patchwork sweats

Two new initiatives on my radar in the repair and re-wear space.

Nike’s Re-Creation project upcycles deadstock and used clothing into new, lovingly crafted pieces where stains and holes are creatively transformed or carefully camouflaged (below). It’s not an entirely unique approach – lots of small start-ups have used this method – but the execution is more in line with my taste. (more…)



In case you missed it – 2022 edition



Miu Miu chinos ss22

While newsletters may be the new blogs, I still have a solid reader base and for that I thank the regulars who revisit and even subscribe. You know who you are! (Reminder: you can subscribe here to receive my weekly blog digest.) But in case you missed any, here are a few of my favourite posts from 2022…

The trend round-ups are always popular. 2022 was the year of Miu Miu chinos, designer water bottle holders, Mary Jane shoes and Khaite everything. Revisit the reports here and here. (This month I also chimed in on the Miu Miu micro-mini craze for BBC Culture.) (more…)



The culture of fashion: Yayoi Kusama x Louis Vuitton goes mass for Cruise 23



Louis Vuitton x Yayoi Kusama Vogue Netherlands by Koto Bolofo - model Rokhaya Fall

This week we’re starting to see the first coverage of the latest Louis Vuitton x Yayoi Kusama collaboration as the Cruise 23 collection prepares to drop in early January. It’s a huge collection and its design and execution are the embodiment of joy, artistry and artisanship.

It’s also super clever.

Yayoi Kusama is one of relatively few fine artists who can be considered almost as brands in themselves. (more…)