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Not your mother’s Versace



Versace SS26 by Dario Vitale

Oh, the Medusa head medallion-clutching at Versace SS26!

It was the most polarising Fashion Month debut so far and I get it. But in a way, polarising is good.

Let’s break it down.

After a few very campy Instagram teasers, the show itself (the first from new creative director Dario Vitale) was a much younger, messier, some say Miu Miu-coded affair. (more…)



NYFW SS26 notes



Coach ss26 neck purses backstage

New York Fashion Week: Not a huge amount to write home about, but a few details captured my attention…

Coach has hit its stride in recent seasons and I’m pleased for Stuart Vevers. He’s a nice guy and I think people conveniently forget that he elevated Loewe in the fashion space before Jonathan Anderson arrived. Anyway, at Coach SS26 (above and below) I liked the neck doodads – cute little pouches and pendants meant to symbolise sentimentality and New York mementos. Styled in combination with dishevelled, oversized silhouettes by appropriately youth-obsessed Olivier Rizzo, they should help attract the next generation of Coach handbag-toting customers. (more…)



Cold eroticism at Jil Sander SS26



Jil Sander ss26

In the absence of a ticket, I watched Simone Bellotti’s debut SS26 show on YouTube. As one of 13 key designer debuts this season, it’s one of the first shows that will be discussed big. Coming from a very critically successful few seasons at Bally, Bellotti has engineered a lot of good feeling from the press.

I loved this debut. It felt stripped back to the spare linear silhouettes of OG Jil Sander, with a pure colour palette that nodded to Raf-era. Within that I particularly liked the cold eroticism of Lucio Fontana-esque cutaway slashes in the skirts and cut-out back details, unexpected pops of silver, some great bags and the flat shoes. (more…)



What’s the surprise? JW Anderson’s retail redux



JW Anderson Brewer Street

It might be my age and the time of year (nesting is calling!) but I’m a bit more excited for fashion’s lifestyle news than adding more clothes to my wardrobe. (Yes, really!)

This week sees the newly refurbed JW Anderson store in Brewer Street, overflowing beautifully merchandised with Jonathan Anderson’s mix of knitwear, loafer bags, Wedgwood Jasperware and Mackintosh oak stools. Later in the year we’ll see his vision for a new store in Pimlico Road (home of spendy antique shops and World of Interior-style stores). (more…)