SS26

Cold eroticism at Jil Sander SS26



Jil Sander ss26

In the absence of a ticket, I watched Simone Bellotti’s debut SS26 show on YouTube. As one of 13 key designer debuts this season, it’s one of the first shows that will be discussed big. Coming from a very critically successful few seasons at Bally, Bellotti has engineered a lot of good feeling from the press.

I loved this debut. It felt stripped back to the spare linear silhouettes of OG Jil Sander, with a pure colour palette that nodded to Raf-era. Within that I particularly liked the cold eroticism of cutaway slashes in the skirts and cut-out back details, unexpected pops of silver, some great bags and the flat shoes.

It felt like a reset, palate-cleansing the proportions from Lucie and Luke’s XXL to something more elegantly wearable. Maybe next season there will be more Simone in the mix, but the response in the room was enthusiastic (I love a cheer at a fashion show). Early responses from buyers are promising – Dover Street Market called it “incredible”, while Carla Sozzani praised the craftsmanship and “beautiful work”. It will be interesting to hear what the rest have to say.

Jil Sander ss26
Jil Sander ss26
Jil Sander ss26Jil Sander ss26
Jil Sander ss26
Jil Sander ss26
Jil Sander ss26

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Jil Sander SS26
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On Tommy Ton and the nuance of street style



Tommy Ton is the gold standard of Fashion Week street style photography for me. I think it’s his attention to details – nuances, gestures – a real feeling for how people inhabit clothes* and not just the rent-a-hype characters.

I love the way he documented the models in Michael Rider’s debut Celine show in July. There’s so much styling in these detail shots, whoever thought of getting Tommy to capture them is a genius ( most likely, Michael tbh). Fashion always looks better in 3-d movement than those generic ’shot from the front’ catwalk pics. (more…)

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Michael Rider’s Celine Spring 26: first impressions are in



Celine Spring 26 by Michael Rider

Sunday saw quite the buzz around the New New Celine show – the debut by Michael Rider, a well-liked alumnus of Phoebe Philo’s Celine, Nicholas Ghesquiere’s Balenciaga and Polo Ralph Lauren.

The result was – quelle surprise! – an amalgam of Ralph, Phoebe’s Celine and Hedi’s Celine. What does that look like? Classic Ralph-like preppy-isms (camel coats, primary colours, blazers and rugby shirts), Phoebe-era scarves and bags, and Hedi’s cool factor in the skinny pants (hated those!) and indie-Oxbridge haircuts. (more…)

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What to steal from Saint Laurent menswear SS26



Saint Laurent men SS26 by Thierry Chesnot

It feels like my favourite moments of Paris Fashion Week men’s were the colour-drenched ones. Willy Chavarria’s saturated pinks, blues and yellows, and Saint Laurent’s nostalgic 70s Fire Island palette felt like a welcome answer-back to the monopoly of Cucinelli-meets-Piana muted neutrals. Add to that, deliberately skew-whiff styling (messy shirt collars at Dior, chappals and trackies at Prada) and the juxtaposition of casual with formal and there’s plenty of inspo to steal from the menswear rail. What’s more, you don’t have to wait till next summer, you can implement many of these ideas now… (more…)

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