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Saint Laurent SS24 womenswear

I’m a bit sick of celebs and Insta clickbait dominating fashion. Some of my favourite fashion month shows were perhaps not Internet-breakingly epic, but were just great for wearable wardrobe candy and ace styling inspo. Yes, fashion week is for Big Ideas but there’s also room for consistent beauty.

I loved the quietly dramatic staging and focused rigour of Saint Laurent. The precisely cut jumpsuits, trousers and patch pocket shirts! The singular colour palette! The gloves, red lip and those aviators! (Don’t we all have a pair somewhere? And a bullet of Rouge Pur Couture?) This collection hammered home the house codes so clearly and confidently, all that was missing was maybe Paloma Picasso and Betty Catroux on the runway. (more…)



The wrong shoe



Gucci SS24 show

What’s the deal with fugly shoes? I thought they were a post-ironic anomaly, but no, the aesthetically displeasing Uggs, Crocs and Bottega-style Puddle boots are clearly sticking around.

Back in the day, a Margiela Tabi boot was seriously avant-garde and the perfect foil to your minimalist Lang/Demeulemeester/Sander little black suit. Now it’s a whole sub-franchise netting hefty sales for loyal retailers.

The #NewGucci SS24 show led by Sabato De Sarno garnered mixed reactions (more…)



Prada SS24 – opposites attract



Prada SS24 womenswear

Prada SS24 was a fabulous hybrid of utility toughness and romantic flou. And I’m very much here for it. The same iridescent gloop we saw for the menswear show oozed from the ceiling giving us a kind of syrupy veil to look through.

I always love Prada’s show styling. Here, I liked the oversized Barbour-eque jackets and see-through skirts, and the tucked-in trouser suits with supersized sleeves and unbuttoned flappy cuffs. This look was especially sharp in the shorts suit paired with chiselled Derbys and ankle socks, although I fear it will be annoyingly omnipresent on the nepo-model set – Hayley, Kendall – sigh. (more…)



40 years of Joseph and their famous handknit sweaters



Joseph handknit sweater and 1980s ad campaign

1983 was a monumental year for fashion. Why? So many reasons but in particular, it was the launch of Joseph*. A key influence on 80s and 90s fashion, Joseph Ettedgui was a knitwear and retail innovator whose fabulous contemporary stores, buying nous and ad campaigns were both timeless and of the moment. (more…)