Business of fashion

Vogue Festival: the verdict




As the fashion publishing industry continues to go through ongoing changes, magazines are testing different ways to extend their brand messaging beyond the paper page. While Hearst has launched Hello Style to beckon the Youtube generation to its titles, Vogue went the interactive route last week with its two-day Vogue Festival. (more…)



Introducing Vestiaire Collective and Odetta boots



As I never tire of saying, I’m not the biggest online shopper. The reasons are many but in a nutshell:
*I live in London. We have Harvey Nichols, The Shop At Bluebird, Portobello Market et al
*I work in fashion, ergo I like to shop on the hop, browsing in stores on my daily beat
*I’m freelance and despite some people’s conclusions, I don’t sit at home in front of a screen all day so I’m not always in to receive parcels (more…)



On Carine Roitfeld’s new magazine, Hearst’s YouTube channel and the future of fashion magazines



My take on The Future Of Fashion Magazines is generally that the collectable bi-annuals will continue and the commercial monthlies will eventually migrate to online-only. My Self Service magazines with their endless photo-editorials and long-form interviews have stood the test of time because they’re not topical (there’s no news or celeb interviews promoting their latest film-slash-beauty contracts), so the content is more ‘pure’. All the attention right now is on Carine Roitfeld’s forthcoming ‘fashion book’, CR Fashion Book (which is really a bi-annual magazine) and from this WWD article, the format looks to follow my theory. Only spreads and long form articles will be featured while the gaps between the twice yearly issued will be filled with more immediate, newsy online content.

Obviously, this switch won’t happen overnight. There’s still a huge market for print mags (evidenced by my own monthly tower of glossies), but the generation in its early teens now most likely won’t have the nostalgic connections to print magazines as we know them, so won’t continue to buy the Glamours and Grazias as we do.

And there’s another big development in magazines coming very soon indeed. Hearst’s tie-up with Youtube, a fashion channel called Hello Style launches on Saturday. I imagine these weekly digital TV shows from the likes of US Marie Claire, Harper’s Bazaar and Cosmopolitan will have far reaching implications for the editorial industry as we know it, so I’ll be watching closely. Will you?



House of Holland launches pre-tail



Roland Mouret in 2007, Burberry in 2010, Moda Operandi in 2011. Is 2012 the year that pre-tail goes mainstream? Henry Holland has just launched pre-tail for the first time with selected AW12 looks available for pre-order directly from his House of Holland website. Customers pay 50% up front with the balance payable just before delivery a few months later. The thinking goes that by asking customers to pay in advance, designers get a heads-up on which pieces will sell best thus avoiding wasteful over-production (not to mention easing cashflow). While Moda Operandi doesn’t give refunds if you receive your item and decide it’s a nonstarter (you can only get ‘store’ credit on the site – a bit jammy, non?), Holland operates the same 28 day refund policy as for his other online sales.