retail concepts

Secret shopping: 45R arrives in London



45R Brook Street london

Japanese slow fashion brand, 45R has just opened its London outpost at 6 Brook Street, selling its cult denim, lived in knits and quilted outerwear. The Americans may be the originators but the Japanese are experts at producing artisan-quality denim that you’ll keep for years. (At 45R they hover between £350 and £800 which gives you an idea of the level of quality we’re talking about.) (more…)



Positive fashion: inside the Maiyet Collective pop-up



Maiyet Collective pop-up Juta shoes

Art, fashion and retail had a very cosy relationship last week. In particular, I discovered an ambitious London pop-up concept – with a difference. As the cashed-up art-fashion crowd descended on the city for Frieze Week, positive impact brand, Maiyet launched its monthly pop-up, Maiyet Collective in Conduit street.

It’s quite the insidery affair, hidden on the first floor of a new private members’ club with little chance of passing trade, plus it’s only open three days a month. But what a fabulous surprise when you venture inside. (more…)



Gabriela Hearst at Net-a-Porter – hype commerce for the chic set



Gabriela Hearst Patsy bag Tamu McPherson

Net-a-Porter is embracing hype commerce with gusto, and I’m conflicted!

These short-term ‘online pop-ups’ are a way to get people shopping instantly (deliberate and be prepared to kick yourself later), a kind of fast fashion for the luxury brigade. I’m generally against that mindless consumption behaviour, but hear me out!

Net-a-Porter’s latest pop-up is from Gabriela Hearst, whose tailoring is widely coveted by the kind of cool executive women who also love The Row, Celine Phoebe Philo and Hermes. But this is all about her bags. (more…)



Gentlewoman style: the menswear edit



matches andrygyne disneyrollergirl

Are trends irrelevant? I think not. We still like to have a bit of a directional steer when we shop, otherwise it’s just a wall of product. For me, I have my perennial go-to trends that swing in and out of popularity. At the moment, ‘gentlewoman style’ is in, that borrowed-from-menswear-but-softened-up look epitomised by Phoebe Philo, Rejina Pyo and Louise Trotter (recently departed from Joseph). (more…)