Karl Lagerfeld

The culture of fashion: how the catwalk soundtrack got its groove



Michael Clark Bodymap fashion show - photograph by Robert Rosen courtesy BodyMap

Models! Clothes! Music! Fashion show soundtracks are increasingly part of shaping a brand’s identity. And in the digital era they’re about to become even more important…

The year was 2017. Kim Jones was menswear artistic director at Louis Vuitton. At the appointed hour, his first models sloped onto the Paris runway in iterations of slouchy 80s overcoats, baggy flannel trousers and Basquiat-style suits with untucked shirts. Then the kicker – internet-breaking Speedy holdalls emblazoned with red-and-white Supreme logos. And to add the crucial fourth musical dimension: Honey Dijon’s mix of Sound Factory bangers including Chez Damier’s Can You Feel It (MK Dub), completing the downtown New York nostalgia trip.

Since then, other notable catwalk soundtracks have included LaQuan Smith’s AW23 Ballroom fabulosity-fest; Benji B’s eerie David Lynch-like Chromatics mix for Jil Sander SS25 and Saint Laurent’s long-term music collaboration with DJ SebastiAn – so integral to the brand, they packaged it as a box set and sold it in Saint Laurent stores. (more…)



Gentlewoman style: Max Mara archives



Max Mara archive

I have a soft spot for Max Mara. In my first job, I had a favourite Max Mara black coat that made me feel very grown up and stealth-chic (until it was swiped off the back of a chair from Costa coffee in Broadwick Street as I sat in a meeting across the road from my office at The National Magazine Company). It was the era of understated, 90s style and a Max Mara coat conferred a certain minimalist sophistication mixed with style anonymity.

“It’s about the logic of a man’s wardrobe, but for women,” (more…)



On Karl Lagerfeld, consumption culture and owning influence



Karl lagerfeld by Takashi Murakami

“I find the joy of collecting, the fun of hunting for objects, the exciting thing. But once I [win] it, I lose interest. I don’t want to be a curator living in a museum.”
Karl Lagerfeld

It was fascinating looking through the lots of Karl Lagerfeld’s estate auction a couple of weeks ago. Among them were his 1980s scrapbooks, his Hedi Slimane for Dior Homme jacket, a Shu Uemura makeup box and his own Chanel croc-embossed tote bag (below, which sold for €94,500). “Collectors from the world over, snapping up Karl Lagerfeld’s objects and designs, have consecrated his status as a fashion icon. The ‘Kaiser’ would surely have been moved by this immense public success,” said Pierre Mothes, vice president of Sotheby’s France. (more…)



Quote of the day: Virginie Viard



Chanel creative director Virginie Viard

“It’s as if my grandparents had given me their fabric house and I wanted it to be the best — I wanted them to be happy. I’m often asking myself, ‘Karl, what do you think? Is it okay?’”

A sweet quote from Chanel creative director Virginie Viard, from this great Vogue profile by Hamish Bowles. (P.S. Who knew she was a MargielaHelmutGalliano stan back in the day?) (more…)