Fashion shows

SS22 menswear: Go to the nightclub with silk shirts on



Wales Bonner men ss22

The joy revolution that started to emerge during the SS21 collections last September is fully showing up for SS22. The most prominent menswear shows have been the ones with a message of optimistic hedonism expressed through colour, music and a throwback to rave culture.

For example I loved Dries van Noten’s Primal Scream soundtrack serenading us through the streets of Antwerp, with the lyrics of Loaded encouraging us to “be free to do what we wanna do!” Van Noten expressed the mood of his design team as “clothes to go and have fun in. Just enjoy things. Go to the night club with silk shirts on.” The shirts were the big highlight; big in every sense, printed with artwork by Rubens and Breughel, as well as photomontages depicting Antwerp city scenes, teamed with loud sunglasses and washed silk outerwear (more…)

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Kenzo SS21 by Filipe Oliveira Baptista



Kenzo ss21

One of the best shows I saw for SS21 was Felipe Oliveira Baptista’s Kenzo collection. Inspired by beekeepers and their utilitarian outfits, the show reflected the social distanced ‘Contagion’ times with incredible headgear and hazmat-style all-encasing outfits fashioned from classic Kenzo florals.

I have a bit of a thing for reveal-conceal headgear, so the hats in particular were my standouts. But the whole show video is gorgeous – do watch! Tragically, it’s just been announced that Kenzo is letting Oliveria Baptista go after only two years at the LVMH-owned brand. Hopefully he’ll get snapped up soon… (more…)

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Hermes AW21 – a dance of toughness and tenderness



Hermes aw21

The three-part Hermès AW21 ‘show’ started in New York with a dance performance choreographed by Madeline Hollander. Impeccably scheduled, the live stream began with dancers sporting identical uniforms of turtleneck, pleated midi skirt and tall boots, performing elegantly rhythmic sequences and gestures expressing the heartbeat of “how New Yorkers move through the city”.

The live broadcast switched seamlessly to Paris, where we watched a runway show of models weaving amongst towers of orange cylindrical boxes, followed by a third act, live from Shanghai, choreographed by Gu Jiani. (more…)

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Style du Monde: My kinda street style



Paris Fashion Week street style by Style du Monde

These Paris Fashion Week street style pictures feel much more natural then the usual pre-pandemic performative circus ones. Acielle (aka Style du Monde) is one of my favourite street style photographers and for Vogue.com she captured off-duty models, the odd show-goer (not sure how many audience-facing shows actually took place tbh) and many regular Parisians going about their day.

Things to notice: walkable shoes, hands-free bags, lots of denim… (more…)

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