SS24

Rethinking a casual staple



J Crew 1989 Heritage cagoule

I don’t know if life is one big algorithm now, but these hooded cagoules seem to be following me around online and IRL.

The seed was first planted last summer via a pinky-orange Loro Piana number in a Harper’s Bazaar editorial. So un-utilitarian, so unexpected, so cool! Then the eau de nil cocktail cagoule from Carven SS24 (below) captured our hearts with its audacious banana sleeves and heavy satin drape. The anti-nylon pac-a-mac, this one is definitely not intended for inclement weather. (more…)



Good clothes



Saint Laurent SS24 womenswear

I’m a bit sick of celebs and Insta clickbait dominating fashion. Some of my favourite fashion month shows were perhaps not Internet-breakingly epic, but were just great for wearable wardrobe candy and ace styling inspo. Yes, fashion week is for Big Ideas but there’s also room for consistent beauty.

I loved the quietly dramatic staging and focused rigour of Saint Laurent. The precisely cut jumpsuits, trousers and patch pocket shirts! The singular colour palette! The gloves, red lip and those aviators! (Don’t we all have a pair somewhere? And a bullet of Rouge Pur Couture?) This collection hammered home the house codes so clearly and confidently, all that was missing was maybe Paloma Picasso and Betty Catroux on the runway. (more…)



Prada SS24 – opposites attract



Prada SS24 womenswear

Prada SS24 was a fabulous hybrid of utility toughness and romantic flou. And I’m very much here for it. The same iridescent gloop we saw for the menswear show oozed from the ceiling giving us a kind of syrupy veil to look through.

I always love Prada’s show styling. Here, I liked the oversized Barbour-eque jackets and see-through skirts, and the tucked-in trouser suits with supersized sleeves and unbuttoned flappy cuffs. This look was especially sharp in the shorts suit paired with chiselled Derbys and ankle socks, although I fear it will be annoyingly omnipresent on the nepo-model set – Hayley, Kendall – sigh. (more…)



Gentlewoman style: Peter Do x Banana Republic



Peter Do x Banana Republic AW23

“I feel like the industry is going through sort of a collaboration exhaustion, and I didn’t want to add any more to that conversation if I didn’t have anything new to say. If we do this, I said, we have to do it in a way where we don’t sacrifice any design integrity…After visiting the stores, I realized the quality is really amazing.”
Peter Do, Vogue.

The Peter Do x Banana Republic collab sounds promising doesn’t it? While we await his debut collection for Helmut Lang at NYFW next month, we’re being teased with this capsule Banana Republic semi-reveal, which lands in October. (more…)