Paris Fashion Week

On Carven, Issey Miyake and Paris show business



Carven-AW14 2

Why have a show? That’s the 64 million dollar question that continues to circulate fashion week season after season. The answer is still elusive – is it an industry insider event or a public spectacle? – but I think if you’re going to have a show, make it a show. Make some element of it surprising, delightful, emotional, weird or thought provoking. It’s not like there isn’t a ton of options at your disposal. There’s the set, the music, the choreography. Or the casting, styling, make up…take your pick.

Carven’s Paris show was staged at the elegant Galerie Des Gobelins – a collection of youthful tailoring with collage-y placements and crystal embroidery that nodded to the art of Man Ray and Blumenfeld. (more…)



Paris Fashion Week Menswear SS13: Paul Smith



My main takeaway from Paul Smith ss13? The world needs more pink suits. (And red, and yellow, and peach.) I love these proportions – short ‘DB8’ jacket (i.e. double-breasted, eight buttons), slim, above-the-ankle trousers, plus note the slightly higher heel too, to ‘create an upright posture’ apparently… (more…)



Paris Fashion Week Menswear SS13: Kenzo




Possibly my favourite Paris show, following a brief display of parkour gymnastics (above), Kenzo heralded a return to its Jungle Jap roots, showing a sporty but tailored collection mixing influences of the urban jungles of Paris and New York with those of Asian jungles. The layers of camo and abstract animal prints are what made this collection sing for me, as well as the huge variety of accessories. Designers Carol Lim and Humberto Leon have brought their retailers’ eye to Kenzo so have got the balance of creativity and commerce spot on. (more…)