“Louis Vuitton has become too common!” LVMH’s Bernard Arnault didn’t quite say last week. But the sentiment was there. Speaking at LVMH’s annual results presentation, he revealed that Louis Vuitton is scaling back on global expansion and focusing more on its high end products and superior customer service to avoid cheapening the brand.
This is a trend, not just at Louis Vuitton, but other luxury houses, who have stripped away the obvious logos and boosted product that shows off house ‘codes’. Dior recently reignited its ‘bar’ jacket and ‘comma’ heels, Gucci, the horsebit loafer (which is 60 years old this year), Chanel flagged up its pearls and Saint Laurent, its tie-neck blouses and iconic tuxedos. At Vuitton, the overexposed monogram has been sidelined for SS13 by the Damier check.
At Louis Vuitton’s pre-fall 13 preview on Thursday, my main highlight was the collection of Noe bags, a heritage Vuitton bag refreshed in new colours and sizes. Originally a carrying case for champagne bottles (what else?), the design celebrates its 80th anniversary this year.
My other highlight was the Icons collection, a capsule collection that updates pieces from the archive. I love this sheepskin balmacaan, a collarless coat that can be worn reversed with the leather on the outside. Delicious, no?
The Prada stacked ‘geta’ flatform is a work of art, that’s undisputed. A piece that you can actually wear? Not so much. Yes, you’ll see Anna Dello Russo, Fran Burns et al admirably trialling it come the February shows, but in the main those editors have drivers; mere mortals will face more of a challenge. Because as well as their height and bulk, these mega shoes weigh a bloody ton! Which is why Prada has also unveiled a far more wearable properly flat version, plus of course its fabulous metallic tabi sock which promises to be the real hit of the season. (more…)
I knew I was going to like Charlotte Olympia’s SS13 collection when I got a glimpse of the chi-chi perfume bottle clutches a few weeks ago. But seeing the whole collection up close, I’m in love, lust, admiration and adulation. Where to start? Wicker wedges, satin espadrilles, cotton kitty pumps, poodle (poodle!) shoes, embroidered ‘newspaper’ clutches, genteel heels, “ooh la la” flats – there’s just so much to adore in this witty Paris-themed collection (which lands in February). (more…)
Some goodies from the AIPR AW12 press day back in March. My favourite discovery? Louis W, a capsule collection for A.P.C by in-house designer Louis Wong, consisting of perfect renditions of the bomber and biker jacket (alas, they’re in men’s sizes – typical). Due in October… (more…)