The Chanel and Dior AW14 couture collections were so different from each other although they both referenced the past to inform the future. The other thing they had in common was youthful hair and makeup. Chanel’s wayward ‘eighties boy band’ hairpieces (above and below) stole my attention from the clothes, giving the outfits an energetic attitude alongside equally youth-centric Sharpie-pen eyeliner flicks. (Full disclosure: I had a major backcombing habit in my teens.) (more…)
As we all know, a decade doesn’t really hit its stride until it reaches its mid point, which is kind of where we’re at now – summer 2014. In fact, it feels to me like we’re only now properly embracing the 21st century, ready to leave the security of the past century behind and boldly go forth. If you want a crystal clear sign, then look at the death of the hipster. Ruling the fashion landscape since the early 2000s, the combo of vintage pastiche, emerging technology and ironic, ugly-on-purpose styling defined the first decade of the millennium with one foot in the past and one foot in the future. Now, having exhausted every ironic retro reference, we’re ready to go full speed into the 2000s. (more…)
Oh the suspense! As rumours continue to bounce around about exactly who will be wielding the golden shears at Schiaparelli, I’m happy about the latest nugget of info: Christian Lacroix will design a one-off couture collection of 15 pieces to be unveiled at Place Vendôme in July.
Other than designing delicious posh stationery and working with Camilla Morton on a fairy story, I’m not really sure what Mr Lacroix has been busying himself with since his house went into administration in 2009. But I’m totally ready to see what ravishing beauty will emerge from his imagination in homage to Elsa Schiaparelli. Coincidentally (or not?), the latest name in the frame for the main Schiaparelli creative director gig is one Marco Zanini of Rochas. Zanini is another favourite of mine with an eye for the historical who also embraces modernity. I love the story Zanini told Lula magazine, that at the age of 16, he started sending letters and sketches to Lacroix who wrote back with encouraging words. How sweet is that? And how spooky!
We saw mutated versions of it at Raf Simons’ debut Dior couture show last July, and now Bruno Frisoni has updated the original in silver mirror leather and pink mink for Roger Vivier’s Rendez-Vous collection AW13. The iconic ‘Comma’ shoe, designed by Vivier in the 1950s was a precursor to the stiletto. As shoe designer for Dior, his creations set the benchmark in footwear design for years to come, and the bent, squat ‘Comma’ was one of his best.
Fast forward to 2013 and we’re seeing more versions of those inwards- and outwards-curved heels, both from the house of Dior and from the house of Vivier and in short and tall versions. For Dior RTW SS13 they’re tall, slightly flared and bent inwards, while at yesterday’s Dior couture show they were super-slender and came in bright metallics and chalky shades. Let’s see if the ‘Comma”s influence spreads further…