Is this the picture that first piqued my interest in all things pretty-tomboy? Jeny Howorth, a big name on the 80s London modelling circuit, epitomises the low-maintenance, fresh-faced, androgynous look that I always go back to. (And however bad I know it is, there’s no denying she looks damn cool smoking a fag.)
As Jen at Mahalo fashion bemoans, every drop of interest has been squeezed out of the ’70s so what’s next on the retro rehash front? I hate to say it but the fact cannot be ignored, it’s time for the nineties revival proper. It’s had a couple of false starts, the latest being nu-rave, but I think we can start looking at the 90s revival from a grown-up point of view. As Fashionista reports that 1990s finest alterna-models Kirsten Owen and Stella Tennant are rumoured to be the faces of Marc Jacobs’ fall campaign, I’m thinking the following will start looking fresh now:
Skinny black suit trousers and pointy black ankle boots -very Helmut Lang/Jil Sander, very Alison Mosshart
Spiky kitten heels – Remember when Dolce & Gabbana did these? I can totally see Vicky Beckham working a kitten heel and sheath dress combo
Non-trashy silver: Who can forget Jean Colonna’s silver jeans, silver leather jackets, silver-sprayed Cons?
McQueen’s ‘ugly’ aesthetic – think edgy tailoring, angry walks, intricate details, elaborate shows
Tom Ford for Gucci’s smoky eye and liquid jersey dresses with punky patent boots (wow, was that really 10 years ago?)
Isaac Mizrahi’s AW04 ballskirt and tee combo – legendary!
Joseph – when did it all go wrong with Joseph? I used to lust after those big black slouchy knits like a junior fashionista possessed, not to mention the boyish trouser suits, luxe hoodies and flat-front trousers with trademark stripe up the side
Patrick Cox loafers – I’m still regretting that I could never afford the gold ones. With news that Patrick Cox has been bought by Eddie Davenport, may I suggest they revive these pretty sharpish?
Camel: AW 94/95 = Camel suits at Calvin Klein (complete with chignons and 60s eyeliner), camel Crombie-style coats at Helmut Lang, camel dresses at MaxMara and Ann Demeulemeester (with aforementioned black ankleboots)
1990s models – Supermodels aside, who doesn’t miss the golden greats: Emma Balfour, Bridget Hall, Lorraine Pascale, Kiara, Veronica Webb, Kirsty Hume, Cecelia Chancellor …
1990s photographers: Ellen von Unwerth, David Sims, Juergen Teller, Corinne Day
CK Jeans: That iconic ad is imprinted on my brain!
Agnes B garconne look – admittedly I never stopped rocking this look but I reckon it’s time for it to resurface. Agnes B has been under-the-radar for most of this decade so let’s hear it for the stripy tee, Black picot-edge cardi and beatnik sunnies. PS, old Agnes is opening up shop in Spitalfields Market soon too.
Emma Balfour in iD
Juergen Teller for Katharine Hamnett Denim
iD cover with Lorraine Pascale
Milla Jovovich wears Alberto Biani in iD photographed by Bob Richardson
A lot is being made of the supermodels revival and I for one am a fan. But I’m also a fan of a number of lesser known 80s/90s models. Think Agyness Deyn is a one-off original? Hmm, I feel I’ve seen her type before. Namely in one Jeny Howorth, she of the cropped boyish hair and gangly limbs. (But could I find a picture? I could not. But my search doth continue.)
Alice Temple is another short-haired tomboy from the 80s. An ex champion BMX-er no less she was an i-D covergirl and postergirl of the Paninaro scene (think Chipie jeans, Chevignon puffa jackets and Naf Naf hoodies). Then there was Ines de la Fressange, Karl Lagerfeld’s muse and one of the most famous models of the eighties. Gamine dark cropped hair and red lips were her trademark until she had a spectacular falling out with Karl, gave up modelling and set up her own fashion and ‘lifestyle’ label.
Where are they now? Jeny Howorth set up a childrenswear company and occasional models for her old agency Select, Alice Temple has lots of tattoos and makes music, while Ines de la Fressange hooked up with Bruno Frissoni and now runs the revived Roger Vivier shoe label.
Pics: Top: Alice Temple
Bottom: Ines De La Fressange
Essential reading: Arthur Elgort’s Models Manual