models

Reiss’s pieces



Just before Christmas, Reiss asked me to take part in their guest stylist programme. They gave me free rein in their fashion cupboard (ie, the entire flagship store – whoop!) and let me dress my model in a mash-up of menswear and womenswear (and some of my own tat ‘archive’ bits). Reiss’s own Jonathan Weatherley shot the pictures in their studio, Sonia Bhogal did the make-up and I was thrilled with my model, Hirschy from Select. Don’t you love her intense eyebrows and Mean Girls stare?

Most of the clothes are sold out now or in the sale. The camel men’s coat is in the sale for £142 and it’s a really beautiful coat! The red shoes are by Underground shoes who incidentally just did the shoes for the Thierry Mugler menswear show

I was lucky to get Hirschy when I did as she jetted off home to Australia for the holidays the next day. But I did manage a quick fire Q&A with her first…

Favourite photographers?
Mert & Marcus, Camilla Akrans and Mario Sorrenti

Favourite shoot?
A brilliant shoot I did with Tank magazine for Liberty – in a completely bizarre set with a load of random  props. It was like a crazy jungle!

Favourite designers?
Zimmermann for their vibrant coloured swimwear, Sass & Bide for their cut-out stuff and Acne for the shoes.

Can you recommend any Australian shops?
In Melbourne I like mostly vintage shops. I’ve bought heaps of stuff from Lion in Love on Brunswick Street – I still wear the little black wedges I bought there years ago.

Hirschy is with Select



On Helmut, Jil, Joseph, Juergen, Corrine, Kirsten and Stella










As Jen at Mahalo fashion bemoans, every drop of interest has been squeezed out of the ’70s so what’s next on the retro rehash front? I hate to say it but the fact cannot be ignored, it’s time for the nineties revival proper. It’s had a couple of false starts, the latest being nu-rave, but I think we can start looking at the 90s revival from a grown-up point of view. As Fashionista reports that 1990s finest alterna-models Kirsten Owen and Stella Tennant are rumoured to be the faces of Marc Jacobs’ fall campaign, I’m thinking the following will start looking fresh now:

Skinny black suit trousers and pointy black ankle boots -very Helmut Lang/Jil Sander, very Alison Mosshart

Spiky kitten heels – Remember when Dolce & Gabbana did these? I can totally see Vicky Beckham working a kitten heel and sheath dress combo

Non-trashy silver: Who can forget Jean Colonna’s silver jeans, silver leather jackets, silver-sprayed Cons?

McQueen’s ‘ugly’ aesthetic – think edgy tailoring, angry walks, intricate details, elaborate shows

Tom Ford for Gucci’s smoky eye and liquid jersey dresses with punky patent boots (wow, was that really 10 years ago?)

Isaac Mizrahi’s AW04 ballskirt and tee combo – legendary!

Joseph – when did it all go wrong with Joseph? I used to lust after those big black slouchy knits like a junior fashionista possessed, not to mention the boyish trouser suits, luxe hoodies and flat-front trousers with trademark stripe up the side

Patrick Cox loafers – I’m still regretting that I could never afford the gold ones. With news that Patrick Cox has been bought by Eddie Davenport, may I suggest they revive these pretty sharpish?

Camel: AW 94/95 = Camel suits at Calvin Klein (complete with chignons and 60s eyeliner), camel Crombie-style coats at Helmut Lang, camel dresses at MaxMara and Ann Demeulemeester (with aforementioned black ankleboots)

1990s models – Supermodels aside, who doesn’t miss the golden greats: Emma Balfour, Bridget Hall, Lorraine Pascale, Kiara, Veronica Webb, Kirsty Hume, Cecelia Chancellor …

1990s photographers: Ellen von Unwerth, David Sims, Juergen Teller, Corinne Day

CK Jeans: That iconic ad is imprinted on my brain!

Agnes B garconne look – admittedly I never stopped rocking this look but I reckon it’s time for it to resurface. Agnes B has been under-the-radar for most of this decade so let’s hear it for the stripy tee, Black picot-edge cardi and beatnik sunnies. PS, old Agnes is opening up shop in Spitalfields Market soon too.

Pics:
CK One
CK One
Emma Balfour in iD
Juergen Teller for Katharine Hamnett Denim
iD cover with Lorraine Pascale
Milla Jovovich wears Alberto Biani in iD photographed by Bob Richardson
Elle



Tomboy supermodels: Jeny Howorth, Alice Temple and Ines de la Fressange





A lot is being made of the supermodels revival and I for one am a fan. But I’m also a fan of a number of lesser known 80s/90s models. Think Agyness Deyn is a one-off original? Hmm, I feel I’ve seen her type before. Namely in one Jeny Howorth, she of the cropped boyish hair and gangly limbs. (But could I find a picture? I could not. But my search doth continue.)

Alice Temple is another short-haired tomboy from the 80s. An ex champion BMX-er no less she was an i-D covergirl and postergirl of the Paninaro scene (think Chipie jeans, Chevignon puffa jackets and Naf Naf hoodies). Then there was Ines de la Fressange, Karl Lagerfeld’s muse and one of the most famous models of the eighties. Gamine dark cropped hair and red lips were her trademark until she had a spectacular falling out with Karl, gave up modelling and set up her own fashion and ‘lifestyle’ label.

Where are they now? Jeny Howorth set up a childrenswear company and occasional models for her old agency Select, Alice Temple has lots of tattoos and makes music, while Ines de la Fressange hooked up with Bruno Frissoni and now runs the revived Roger Vivier shoe label.

Pics: Top: Alice Temple
Bottom: Ines De La Fressange
Essential reading: Arthur Elgort’s Models Manual