Design

Bicester Village supports young designers



Despite my not-so-subtle hints, Bicester Village has sadly not fallen for my self-serving genius idea of a pop-up shop in London. I shouldn’t cry too hard though as it has gone for something else, even cleverer.

Last Wednesday saw the launch of the British Designer Collective, a Bicester Village pop-up shop (open 31 Mar – 7 May) to celebrate emerging British design talent and expose it to the quality-conscious customer who loves original design but would like it not to be super-expensive. The beauty of Bicester Village is that its collections are two seasons old. So if you’re buying in April 10, you’ll be buying April 09’s collection. For young British designers like Erdem, Emma Cook and Atlanta Weller, it’s a way to make money on the pieces that didn’t sell while giving customers a second chance to buy from a past collection.
Like a sample sale then? God no! Unlike a sample sale, the merchandise is beautifully presented in a boutique setting. There are fitting rooms! They take credit cards! You can return it if you change your mind! Yes, it’s exactly like a proper shop, except the prices are generously reduced. In the current still-cautious climate, these value-conscious initiatives are more than welcome. For online customers there is Brand Alley, Gilt Groupe, Vente-Privee, The Outnet and Ebay’s new ‘flash fashion’ sales. For those who like shopping in shops, there’s Bicester Village. And for those who favour Maria Francesca Pepe over Marni, there’s the British Designer Collective.

MARIA FRANCESCA PEPE

EMMA COOK
GEORGINA GOODMAN
THE DECOR
HOUSE OF HOLLAND

ATLANTA WELLER
LOUISE AMSTRUP


Untitled by Maison Martin Margiela




When I requested a sample of the new (and only) Maison Martin Margiela fragrance, I expected a bottle of scent and a press release, possibly packaged in an anonymous white box. I didn’t expect this…
The bottle of scent was present and the packaging was suitable Margiela – white utilitarian drawstring pochette and white linen carrier bag. But also present was a big white accordion file containing all sorts of geek-friendly ephemera. A technical drawing of the bottle (well it was designed by Fabien Baron), a joint interview with Baron and Maison Martin Margiela, God knows how many CVs, photos and explanatory notes on Maison Martin Margiela and my favourite – some silver foil discs that are destined for the drawer marked ‘Interesting Collage-y Stuff For Scrapbook’.

The bottle, as expected, is a work of pure, minimalist art. A nice weighty clear glass affair with a faux stopper and string tie for an added utilitarian touch (and you just know there would have been fifty meetings to discuss the string alone). And the fragrance itself? Clean and green…and quite addictive. PS, boys can wear it too…



Equipment: The ultimate boyfriend shirt part II




Back in November, following a month of press days, I posted this story on Equipment, the classic shirt line originated by Christian ‘partner of Carine’ Roitfeld. I had spotted the relaunched line during my rounds and thought nothing of sharing the few pictures I had taken. Unbeknown to me, my story was linked via a few different blogs including Fashionologie.

A couple of weeks later, the PR emailed me to say that my post had caused her problems as the Equipment relaunch story had been promised as an exclusive to a major international publication in March. I could have been uncooperative but the PR was so nice and apologetic that I was happy to comply and took the post down. Yesterday, I bought March US Vogue and there was the story. Whoops, sorry Anna!

Now the story is ‘out there’ I have been given the green light to put the post back up. The update is that when Carine Roitfeld took the Paris Vogue job, Christian Roitfeld decided to step down from Equipment. But fast forward a few years and his good friend Serge Azria has decided to relaunch it. Serge (brother of Max) also owns Current/Elliot and JOIE so has excellent credentials. Restoin remains connected to the brand which is jolly handy considering he still has all 3,500 original Equipment designs in his archive. According to Vogue, the ‘just shirts’ essence of the brand will stay the same but there are plans for more directional things too.



Love this…



Marina & the Diamonds single artwork channel’s Warhol’s Interview magazine covers – now this is pop art literally!

MARINA & THE DIAMONDS
INTERVIEW MAGAZINE


(On a side note, wouldn’t it be amazing if a mag like Harper’s Bazaar could initiate illustrated covers by contemporary artists. Britney by Elizabeth Peyton? Now that I would buy.)