Oooh so much bemusement from the not-young fashion contingent re Gosha Rubchinskiy! I get it. I struggle sometimes too, but you just have to supplant your own knowledge and references for the mindset of young people for a change. For his SS17 show, as a guest of Pitti, Gosha collaborated with a bunch of Italian brands that were coveted in the 80s for their cult Casual status. (Casual as in the youth cult, not the informal mode of dress.) So think Kappa, Fila and Sergio Tacchini, styled on an army of gangly youths.
People like me have seen this all before, but an 18-year-old Gosha worshipper views this with completely fresh eyes and wants to eat it up whole and fast. That’s the magic of Gosha, along with his singular vision and many multi-media ways of communicating it. Like Raf Simons, it’s about having a specific and unbending point of view. It’s not about following trends, it’s just, ‘here’s what’s on my mind, I present it for your consideration’.
For a moment I thought it was another effort at subverting cult logos; oh how many times have we been here before? But no, it appears these are legit collaborations. Of course, the die-hards will save up for a bit of Gosha X Fila, but just as many will be happy to source their Fila from Oxfam, Wavey Garms or ASOS and give it their own Gosha-style flavor. There’s nothing new under the sun about a logo sweatshirt shown on underfed boys but it’s Gosha’s viewpoint and that’s all that matters to his obsessed fans.
WORDS: Disneyrollergirl/Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Gosha Rubchinskiy SS17 via High Snobiety; Dazed/Virginia Arcano
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