Designers

LFW – Day three



Another day of running around and hitting the shows to ‘hoover up’ stories for The Daily. Betty Jackson was first where I snapped some cute little almost-flat shoes with fabric pompoms and tried not to stare at Peter Blake and Tracey Emin (two of my favourite artists). Mulberry at Claridges was a very classy affair but tempered with candy-coloured balloons to make it less formal and more fun. Clothes-wise is was very commercial. I’d say it’s all about those fringy boots…




Topshop Unique was also uber-commercial and very derivative. I saw shades of early Luella crossed with Bananarma and Courtney Love. There were so many ideas there though – XXXXL oversize mens shirts with the sleeves sliced off and fluoro spray paint as a print. And still the mega high heels continue. At Jasmine de Milo, I liked the simplicity of a long, eau de nil long-sleeved gown and the leather cocktail dresses with pockets. Why can’t all dresses have pockets? Tomorrow, the Americans arrive (by which I mostly mean, Anna W), although one American is here already. I made friends with Britt from Fashionista, who was also filing copy for The Daily. Britt loves London, having interned for Stella McCartney back in the day. I also caught up with a record number of bloggers including Frassy, Bish Shops, Magazine Machine, That’s Not My Age, Torfrocks. Wee Birdy, Aindrea, Susie Bubble, Rebekah Roy and Discotheque Confusion. Did I forget anyone? Crikey, no wonder I’m so zonked out and my eyes are closing as I type.



Front row fix AW10



It’s day two of LFW AW10 and I’m already dead beat. Someone get me a stamina sandwich please! The good news is that there is a fantastic optimistic atmosphere. Whether it’s due to the weather or the new venue, everyone is in upbeat mode! Day one saw Joan Collins pitching up bright and early, obviously loving all the shoulder pad action going down in the collections. I was thrilled to see Yang Du (below) finally show on a catwalk – her cartoon stripy T-shirt dresses and knitted tiger bags were so graphic and poppy. I must say, it was bloody hard watching shows, getting designer quotes and filing copy for The Daily (practically all at the same time) but I managed to pull it off by the skin of my teeth.
Today was an easier ride beginning at Mark Fast. I’d heard a rumour that he would be sending out (gasp!) plus size models and he did. Opinion was divided on whether this was a good move. His original stylist refused to work with ‘big girls’ so he had to cast at the last minute. Unforch, size 14 models aren’t usual catwalk material so his girls weren’t brilliant at mastering the catwalk strut. Hey ho. That aside, the collection was brilliant and OMG, the suede ruffles were beauties.

Mary Katrantzou showed back-to-back with Mark. More cleverly thought-out shapes plus Mary had developed her glass bottle prints into something slightly more abstract and freeform. I loved the painterly eye make-up too.


The Kinder Aggugini show was the big WOW. I earwigged on a post-show conversation with Hilary Alexander and set-designer Michael Howells as they each took turns to say an exclamatory line.
Sensational!
“He’d be perfect for Ungaro!”
Haute couture!
“If he’s not snapped up within the year…”
“…you’ll eat your cigarette!”
I can never quite decide about Kinder Aggugini (OK, I didn’t like it) but I loved the Louise Gray presentation. There was collagy layering and art-school patchwork, hot pinks and blues, more colourful crayon make-up and DIY accessories fashioned by Judy Blame. And the DIY aesthetic extended to the decoration of the space – fluoro spray paint (a la Madonna’s Borderline video), gaffer-taped signage and even Louise’s own grafitti’ed laptop.











Ashish as usual was a riot of sequins and colour, this time with a holiday theme. Nike tick sequin tees, flamingo motifs and the Beach boys all added up to vacation, vacation, vacation.


Snippets



Today has been a complete whirlwind so I’m speed-blogging to get it all down.

Breakfast with Tiffany
9am Brekkie at Automat with a very blog-savvy PR. Lots to discuss including the importance of brands to have a two-way conversation with consumers online.

First look at APC
1030am Love that familiar signature candle scent on first entering the new Dover Street store and I immediately eyeballed all the shirts, wedges and belts. Welcome back to London APC!

Murdock opens store no 3
1045am Just a stone’s throw from APC in Dover Street was the latest Murdock luxury barbers (5B Stafford Street, W1). These guys have cornered the market in high end (but not poncy) male grooming. Alongside the trad barbers service, they offer a lovely retail experience, especially if you’re a girl gift-buying for a fussy discerning guy. When I asked to have a nose round, I was invited to have a look upstairs, even though ‘it’s not finished yet’ and my host also revealed that Scott Schuman had recently enjoyed the Murdock experience. Didn’t surprise me one bit, this place is a must-visit for all sartorialists.




Falling back in love with LK Bennett
1130am: As I was in Bond Street, I decided to give Fenwick the once over including a mini- tour of LK Bennett. Wow, it’s suddenly totally right for now. I liked the high-on-the-instep Mary Janes (Selina, £155), roundtoe courts in an array of heel heights (Sabira, £130, Shilo, £140) and red low-heel pumps (Samedi £125) to go with crop skinny jeans and ankle socks. Nice work LKB.




Short Cuts
12pm This Uniqlo window caught my eye – same-day instore alterations. Me likey.
Daily Candy and arm candy
3pm After more meetings and lunch I headed to Fashion Business Club to take in an interview with DailyCandy.com‘s London editor Malika Dalamal. Daily Candy is looking into encouraging feedback from its readers via comments which I think is a very good thing indeed as it harnesses the community spirit and keeps the punters coming back. Post-interview I caught up with a number of fashion people including accessory designer, Quentin MacKay. I first met MacKay years ago when he had designed some very simple black leather wristbands and I had bought one (I think it was when Browns Focus had just opened). I still have it today and was pleased to discover that following successful stints at Tanner Krolle and Samsonite Black, MacKay has now launched a luxury accessory line under his own name – it’s the real deal, have a look here.


Canape-watch at The BFC NEWGEN winners announcement




A delightfully British spread was laid on for guests at the announcement of the BFC NEWGEN sponsorship winners at Somerset House. A proper cream tea feast awaited us on a table groaning with crustless cucumber sandwiches, home-made lemonade and a particularly fine mini scone.

Info gleaned:
NEWGEN sponsor TopShop is collaborating with ‘a renowned image-maker’ on a short fashion film!

Louise Gray’s laptop is as arty as her dresses!

Feathers PR Violaine has a new haircut!

Henry Holland’s flight was delayed meaning a no-show for Henry!

One of the designers had a mini-strop!

For the serious NEWGEN news, go here