Shop the post: Shape shifting
I’m conflicted.
On the one hand I’ve long aspired to the XXL silhouettes of Studio Nicholson, Jil Sander and Phoebe Philo. On the other, I’m a short person. I frequently forget I’m not in fact a 5-foot 10 supermodel and continue to buy men’s sweaters, gargantuan trench coats and jumbo shirts as if I’m David Byrne in Stop Making Sense. Send help!
Actually, help has been sent. While I was seduced by Prada’s SS24 barn jacket, I managed to avert disaster by largely swerving all the exact replicas. (Diminutive they were not.) The result is that with patience I’ve landed on a much more sensible option. It’s got the rustic ‘old money’ codes of a Barbour-style waxed jacket, plus the contemporary, deconstructed silhouette of a Prada or Loewe. But it’s cropped (on me) just below the waist with capacious (but adjustable) barrel sleeves and a substantial drawstring to play with volume further. Thank you Zara* (above).
And the best bit is, it looks like this might be the shape of things to come. From Commission SS25 (below) this green blouson caught my eye, while from Prada SS25 I’m also coveting this poppy red blouson (below) – that fitted waist and broad-shouldered silhouette is something that’s transcended decades to be a good compromise for the vertically challenged gamine who nevertheless wants a little controlled volume to amp up their presence! (Of course, Miu Miu arguably kicked the whole thing off with its SS22 riff on a classic Harrington, just with heaps more sass – below.)
Below: Commission SS25
Below: Prada SS25
Below: Prada SS25
Below: Miu Miu SS22
A further influence: the exaggerated trench blousons causing a kerfuffle at Willy Chavarria AW25 (below). These master pieces, inspired by L.A Chicano culture (and a Caravaggio colour palette) nevertheless translate across continents to British town and country with their utilitarian details yet metropolitan swagger.
Below: Willy Chavarria AW25
Ways to wear? I like a bougie silk carré to offset the alpha male proportions; a vintage Levi’s Type 3 fitted jacket (it should fit snugly under that voluminous V-line); plus cigarette pants or a slim jean punctuated with a circa-100mm almond-toe boot (more elevation, both vertically and stylistically).
And if you’re not vertically challenged, do note all the low-riding hip details – untucked layered shirts, low-slung belts, dangling key details, all to play for.
NOW CLICK BELOW TO SHOP THE POST (I MAY EARN A COMMISSION ON THE BASKET VALUE OF ITEMS BOUGHT*)…
WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Zara; Commission SS25; Prada SS25 x 2; Miu Miu SS22; Willy Chavarria AW25
NOTE: Most images are digitally enhanced. Some posts use affiliate links* and PR samples. Please read my privacy and cookies policy here
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