Paul Cavaco

Random Recs: Materialists, Peter Hujar, Scorsese’s Armani, Sofia’s shorts



Herbert Levine by Mark Borthwick

A few snippets of digital ephemera and IRL recommendations I’ve enjoyed lately…

1/ Everybody’s sad about GIORGIO ARMANI’s passing – R.I.P – and quite rightly so. I enjoyed writing this piece a couple of years ago and especially re-watching Martin Scorsese’s short film on him, Made In Milan (below).
Armani film Made in Milan

2/ I’m very late to the MATERIALISTS party but was instantly enamoured with Lucy’s Paris Texas boots in the opening scene. Could this autumn see the return of small skirts, tall boots and black Wolford opaques? Buy the boots here* (and get the rest of the wardrobe intel here).

3/ PETER HUJAR’S DAY (below), the stream-of-consciousness film starring Ben Whishaw lands in cinemas this autumn.
Peter Hujar's Day film

4/ TONNE GOODMAN talks. If you’re a 90s nostalgist, don’t miss this excellent podcast from earlier in the year with Tonne Goodman and Paul Cavaco. (Have tissues on standby for the ending!)

5/ This summer I learnt a new haberdashery term and can’t believe I never knew about ‘cabbage’, aka “the practice of making extra garments from offcuts or leftover fabric from cutting an item”. Obviously, from now on I’m pronouncing it ‘cabbahgge’, in the style of a 1980s New York ballroom queen.

6/ Incoming: SOFIA COPPOLA boxer shorts and PJ bottoms.

7/ HERBERT LEVINE (the revived shoe brand helmed by former The Row designer Trevor Houston) has just dropped in 12 stockists including Harrods, Saks 5th Avenue and Mytheresa*. Vogue Business has a fascinating profile and this old Coveteur piece is great too. The shoes promise to be playful and practical. I like the look of this boot (below).Herbert Levine by Mark Borthwick

8/ P.S: We’ve been saying STEVE BUSCEMI’s name wrong. It’s Boo-SEM-ee, says the NYT (gift link).

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES:  Herbert Levine by Mark Borthwick; Made In Italy/Disneyrollergirl; Peter Hujar’s Day; Herbert Levine by Mark Borthwick
NOTE: Most images are digitally enhanced. Some posts use affiliate links* and PR samples. Please read my privacy and cookies policy here

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Quote of the day: Paul Cavaco



Paul Cavaco stylist via into The Gloss

“Being on set with Avedon was heaven. I mean, it was scary at first. I would be styling and he would say, ‘What’s the surprise?’ The surprise? What the fuck is he talking about? We were shooting shoes, and so I told him that the model was wearing mauve socks. The rest of the clothes were olive and drab, but I styled in these socks. Dick asks the guy to pull his pant leg up a little bit so you could see the sock, and that was the punch of the picture. With Avedon, there’s always something to delight you.”

A brief history of fashion editing is going on at Into The Gloss, courtesy of Paul Cavaco. Remember when Allure was incredible in the late 90s/early 00s? That was Paul…

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Richard Avedon: What’s the surprise?



Richard Avedon - what's the surprise?

I spent last weekend dipping in and out of the Stylist book I bought a couple of weeks ago and can I say it was money well spent. In particular, this quote from Allure creative director Paul Cavaco resonated with me:

“Richard Avedon would ask, ‘What’s the surprise?’ And you’d go, ‘It’s the purple sock,’ so he’d go ‘Okay, move the pant leg up.’ I worked with great visual people who would ask, ‘Why am I looking at this? What is great about this girl? Yes, she’s beautiful, but they’re all beautiful. Show me what is different. Is it lipstick; is it not? What is that hand doing? Is it just shoved in the pocket? Should it be out or should it be showing a nail?’ You have all these options; what are you going to choose? The world is that open; how do you make it yours? That’s the editing process.”

Wise words. The book seems to feature mostly Conde Nast stylists (W, Vogue, Allure) which isn’t all that surprising as Style.com is behind it but Sarah Mower’s writing is spot on and it’s just so interesting to get a bit of an insight into these backstage creatives.

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl
IMAGE: Richard Avedon
NOTE: Most images are digitally enhanced. Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my privacy and cookies policy here

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