All change




I’m seriously worried. Word is that autumn/winter is going to be the season of the big shoulder. It’s been a while coming – Lord knows the eighties revival has been bubbling at a steady pace – but so far ‘Eighties’ has been more about youthful jersey, Lycra and dayglo than Dallas-Dynasty silhouettes. Well forget all that. Preen’s show had a severely defined shoulder and Margiela is already touting the tailored shoulder as the way forward. Which begs the question, what kind of bag does one wear? An oversized slouch of the type we have all grown accustomed to simply will not do. Its chunky heaviness will slice a shoulder pad in two so a sharper, structured look is what’s needed. I’m liking this look by relative newcomer Michael Teperson. This bag has already been snapped up by Natalia Vodianova and it’s a handheld affair which won’t interfere with the sacred shoulder. An oversized clutch is another option already getting a certain amount of exposure for spring. Whichever it is, it’s all about a blade-sharp chic look so don’t fight it, embrace it.



Charmed




I was sent some pictures of some jewellery by a new designer (well, I’d never heard of him) this week. Luis Morais is based in Miami and his jewellery is sold in Bamford & Sons in King’s Road in the UK. I really like it and haven’t seen it mentioned anywhere else so…you saw it here first!



Secret shop



Today was the third or fourth time I’ve been to The Shop At Bluebird (www.theshopatbluebird.com) in King’s Road. This is a shop that seems to be forever under the radar, possibly something to do with its location, at the Worlds End end of King’s Road. It has a great mix of lesser known labels (Alexander Wang, Danielle Scutt, Charles Anastase) mixed in with well-loved labels like APC yet it’s always quiet and I kind of feel it should have more recognition. When I go to Dover Street Market, I’m impressed at the layout and the merchandise but somehow I never feel like buying anything (which is just as well, it ain’t cheap). Here, I just want everything in sight. There is also beautiful jewellery of the thin-chain-with-delicate-charm variety that I can’t resist, as well as a fabulous book section. I don’t know why I’m complaining, Bluebird is like a secret shop to me but at the same time I want it to do well. If you’ve never been I’d recommend it.



A dieu Dior?



Interesting news that Hedi Slimane has left Dior Homme. The genius designer has been making too many demands on LVMH and so they’ve passed the baton to Kris van Assche from Belgium. Like the demise of Helmut Lang and Jil Sander, this marks the end of an era. Even if Slimane decides to launch his own label I doubt it will be remembered in the same way as Hedi Slimane For Dior Homme. During his time at Dior, Slimane pioneered a whole new lean and youthful silhouette for men, much like Giorgio Armani did with his unstructured menswear in the eighties. Collectors, best start snapping up those remaining bits of Dior Homme, they will be like gold dust from now on.