Good old Gosha Rubchinskiy. While the world freaks out about big bad Russians and scary old #manbabytinyhands, finally we have someone who only cares about youth and unity.
Gosha just showed his AW17 show in Kaliningrad, a tiny Russian coastal town between Poland and Lithuania. There were only forty guests present and no music. Instead each model (Russian kids streetcast from Instagram as per usual) walked to a recorded dialogue of his hopes and ambitions.
Gosha is collaborating with Adidas Football in the run up to the 2018 World Cup. So the collection was a mix of hoodies, sweats, excellent Adidas sock trainer-boots (the Ace 16+ Super) and other sporty pieces styled with tailored blazers, rigid jeans, anoraks and a big statement riffing on military-meets-UPS-style trousers and shirts. This was my favourite story – give me a boy in a military beret and I’m anyone’s.
Styling is always key in these shows. Along with the music, venue and casting they give the subtle cues that differentiate one show or designer from another when the clothes are this simple. Gosha’s styling is always very ‘real’ inspired by his young skater-kid audience and their lifestyle. I liked the sweaters over shoulders and tidy belts, the contrast of clean formality with casual youth culture. Watch how this look plays out over the rest of the menswear season…
WORDS: Navaz Batliwalla/Disneyrollergirl
IMAGES: Vogue.com, WWD
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