Major excitement at the Reiss press day where the first autumn/winter collection from new brand director Andy Rogers was unveiled. Rogers arrived at Reiss from Stella McCartney almost a year ago and he has really sharpened the focus of the brand. Not only has he fine-tuned the main range but he has also introduced a new label called 1971 for the Reiss girl to wear at the weekend. Comprising jeans (made in the same factory as Acne jeans) as well as to-go-with pieces, shoes and accessories, it has a lower price point but the same attention to design and detail as the mainline collection. I was mightily impressed.
Yummy basics – hello Reiss, goodbye Hanro…
Soft grey First lady chic – Nancy-Reagan-meets-MObama
Studded silk – the weight of this is just beautiful Class, elegance, sophistication – tick, tick, tick The piece the press went mad over Oops, how did this Karen Millen rail get in here? Foot candy Breton stripes Tasteful trinkets Suede is the new leather Love!
This Ossie Clark jacket has just resurfaced after many years and is being identified as the same one owned by Ossie himself and possibly worn by Mick Jagger. My observations? The cut is slap-bang on trend for this season with its biker connotations and diagonal zips. And how soft does that snakeskin look? Beautiful…
The first week of press days is nearly over – yippee! Prevailing trends so far have been the shaggy fur outsize gilet (one in pretty much every collection I’ve seen), thigh-high fetishy boots, Obama yellow (a kind of mustard-meets-chartreuse) and shit-loads of cashmere.
Did I say I don’t like press days in showrooms? I take that back. French Connection’s showroom was bedecked in hundreds of giant blue balloons like a Tim Walker/Shona Heath shoot set. Bloody brilliant!
Agent Provocateur’s cupcakes and fruit tarts
Best goody bag
Phone charms from Swarovski and Tatty Devine appealed to my inner twelve-year-old but were pipped to the post by the Jo Malone gift box at B2B Media.
Stumbling upon Tatty Devine and Charlie le Mindu’sactual work in progress. (They’re working on a collab together, what fun!)
Wow, what a marathon day of press days. All the big agencies decided to show on the same day (thanks guys) and even worse, three of them were on the same block so I hit the ground running at 10am and just kept going, and going and going.
There was an arty theme running through today with Relative PR showing at the Elms Lester painting rooms where the walls are daubed with creative sploshes and Halpern PR relocating from their usual home in SW3 to the Royal Academy Schools. It was novel looking at sunglasses and knickers surrounded by easels and artists’ statues but there’s no doubt that an interesting environment helps make the press day more memorable than riffling through endless rails in a showroom.
Halpern came up with the goods twice. I got chatting to the charming Lisa Tstang whose luxury label LisaT is on a mission to use cashmere for every area of living and keep it (relatively) affordable. I loved the understatement of her tunic dress with all-enveloping detachable scarf.
Meanwhile, I’m finding myself fascinated by eyewear at the moment and opticians Auerbach & Steele were a new discovery for me, even though they have been in the King’s Road for 15 years. Barton Perreira is a new sunglasses name to know from two Oliver Peoples veterans, while an unusual pair of Alain Mikli visor-esque shades are evidence of their avant-garde taste. Auerbach & Steele only sell the limited edition Miklis so it’s worth a look if you’re ever in the area and fancy something different from the usual Raybans and Guccis.
Finally, I thought I’d died and gone to heaven when I clapped eyes on the WANT, Les Essentiels de la Vie travel range at the Harvey Nichols press day. I have some sort of weird fascination for masculine, minimalist man-baggage and these bags, ipod cases and laptop cases have all the necessary elements – slender proportions, neat compartments and classic colours – to pique my interest.
Best micro trend
What the hell is going on? In two days I’ve seen a bunch of these retro helmets in three different places – at Diesel, G Star and Bally. If that’s not a mirco trend I don’t know what is…
Best fancy boots
Now there’s no way I could just pick one so I’ve picked my top 4:
1) Raf Simons’ metallic Dr Martens are a stroke of sheer genius
2) These Willow boots are just so ugly, I love them! And I know they’d look killer on (if you could get them on, that is)…
3) These See by Chloe boots are apparently only £100. Go figure…
4) “I can’t believe I’m photographing a pair of Versus boots and liking them!” I exclaimed to my friend A, until she pointed out these jodhpur boots are the ones Christopher Kane designed for Versus. Oh.
Best Jim’ll Fix It jacket
Gotta love this Wrangler bomber – isn’t it camp?!
[Pics: Top to bottom
Elms Lester Painting Rooms
Royal Academy Schools
Raf Simons for Dr Martens