Levi’s gets its groove back




Last week I blogged about the heritage of Dr Martens. This week, the heritage baton gets passed to Levi’s. I was treated to a pre-opening store tour of the refurbed Regent Street flagship a couple of weeks ago and the main message seems to be… Levi’s is keepin’ it real.

From its industrial factory-replica refit to its new name for its denim experts – ‘drapers’ and ‘artisans’, Levi’s has realised that its customers respect its roots and is capitalising on that. OK, the ‘artisans’ moniker is a wee bit pretentious but I’m prepared to let that go. For a while, Levi’s was guilty of trying too hard to compete with the Diesels of this world but – guess what? – Levi’s isn’t about ‘sexy’, it’s about utilitarianism and authenticity. Thankfully, it is now properly embracing its workwear heritage and amen to that. A particular highlight of the flagship store (along with the visible warehouse dedicated to 501s) is a 90-something-year-old pair of Levi’s on display in the basement. Unearthed from a mine in the Mojave Desert, I ask you, how many other denim brands can boast one of these?

When I previewed the SS10 collection six months ago, I was overjoyed to see so many old favourites. Hello classic denim jacket sans faux-faded patches! Hello western plaid shirt! Hello straight-out-of-CBGBs leather biker jacket! The Guardian recently reported that Levi’s will never be cool again but I disagree. Acne may be popular with fashionistas and Uniqlo with the downtown hipster set but Levi’s has its incredible heritage and that makes it relevant again (BTW, ‘relevance’, like ‘heritage’ is a key word being bandied about right now). Its latest campaign is also a bit of a looker. As a lifelong supporter I may be biased, but I think Levi’s is ready to have it’s moment once more.

Levi’s SS10






Industrial storage
The 501s-only warehouse visible from the shop floor

Unisex fitting rooms and utilitarian seating
THOSE 100-year-old jeans


Malick Sidibé’s powerful portraits



Malick Sidibe chemises
How glad am I that I made it to the Malick Sidibé exhibition before it ends on Friday (16th April)!* The show of black and white portraits starts with a display of ‘chemises’, mini prints that serve as a kind of cataloguing system, one of the highlights of the exhibition.
Malick Sidibé chemises
Sidibé started taking pictures of local Malian merrymakers in 1960 when Mali became independent from France. They had just discovered luxury shops and western fashion and would dress up to the nines to have their outfits documented. Everything was about fashion and style, from the record sleeves they held in front of them to the way they held their cigarettes.

Sidibé would trawl from one trendy club to another all night snapping his subjects and then print in his lab until the morning. On Mondays and Tuesdays, the clubbers would stop by to see the results and generally hang out. They would also pose at ‘Studio Malick’ for more formal portraits. The loveliest part of this story is that to this day, Sidibé’s studio is still set up and the locals continue to stop by for a photo session. If you get the chance, do hurry to the exhibition this week (133 Oxford Gardens, W10, 07979 422000, 11am-6pm, [email protected]).


WORDS: Disneyrollergirl/Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Disneyrollergirl; last two images from Italian Vogue. (Double click to enlarge)
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*UPDATE: The Malick Sidibé exhibition has been extended for two days until Sunday April 18th (11am-6pm).


Capes are in, mumsy is out



News just in from Ebay.

“eBay.co.uk has been monitoring the sales of Sam Cam [Samantha Cameron to non-UK readers] and Sarah Brown-related fashions, as they head on the campaign trail. So far, we’re seeing sales of Mrs Cameron’s simple, tailored favourites soaring (sales of ponchos have increased by 56% since she sported one), while Sarah Brown’s more ‘mumsy’ style dropping.”

So now you know.



High heels that are good for you? Get outta here!



Oh man! I have spent the last two weeks researching the shift from uber-high heels to clogs, flats and kitten heels and I’m almost all shoe-ed out. Almost. Here’s a new take on the statement high-heel backlash. Beverly Hills designer Dana Davis has taken her own need for a beautiful-yet-comfortable high heel and turned it into a business. So it can be done!

Davis’ shoes create a delicate balance between the first and fifth metatarsals and the heel to ease the pressure on the foot but crucially, the designs are works of beauty. The feelgood benefits are an added bonus for those who routinely put fashion before function. Er, that’ll be most of us then. As she claims of her 4.5 inch heel plat-heels, “You can wear them to an event and still walk home.”

All her high heels have an integrated platform as well as a cushioned orthotic footbed and customized arch supports. Thankfully, they do away with the current vogue for fetishy pin heels and have more of a ’40s Hollywood aesthetic with straight, slim heels, T-straps and D’orsay cutaways. I think she might be onto something.


www.danadavis.com