On Carven, Issey Miyake and Paris show business

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Why have a show? That’s the 64 million dollar question that continues to circulate fashion week season after season. The answer is still elusive – is it an industry insider event or a public spectacle? – but I think if you’re going to have a show, make it a show. Make some element of it surprising, delightful, emotional, weird or thought provoking. It’s not like there isn’t a ton of options at your disposal. There’s the set, the music, the choreography. Or the casting, styling, make up…take your pick.

Carven’s Paris show was staged at the elegant Galerie Des Gobelins – a collection of youthful tailoring with collage-y placements and crystal embroidery that nodded to the art of Man Ray and Blumenfeld. Skirt lengths were both teeny skater-style and lean calf-grazers, styled with chunky fall-over heels. The models walked solemnly and trepidatiously (not surprising in those shoes), lit by cinematic spotlights and each hugging a squashy clutch bag to her chest, teddy bear-style. I liked this simple but consistent detail. And the accompanying music (Mistakes by Tindersticks) was suitably haunting and evocative, adding drama to a show that was both beautiful and memorable…


Meanwhile, Issey Miyake on Friday was set in a pitch black tent in the Tuileries. The show notes promised a ‘Rhythmatic Forest’ with live music by guitarist Ei Wada and vocalist Chiyako, using Wada’s self-invented spring guitar which itself proved a dramatic visual backdrop to the show. I loved the beginning in which simply-clad models stopped in strategic positions and proceeded to transform the flat bags they were carrying into bouncy sculpted dresses…

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Issey Miyake Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2014 Paris

The show continued,with many variations of designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae’s ‘tree ring’ style pleats in a warm (and sometimes printed) palette of greens, blues, tans and winter berry shades. Of course, similar structured pleats have found their ways into numerous other designers’ shows lately but Miyake’s pioneering heat-pressed technique continues to explore fresh perspectives. Added to the mix were multi-textured coats and nubby knits, ending in a choreographed finale of colour, shape and texture that could only be Miyake…

Issey Miyake Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2014 Paris
Issey Miyake Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2014 Paris
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[Image credits: Disneyrollergirl x 1; Carven x 5; Disneyrollergirl x 2; GPS Radar x 3; Disneyrollergirl x 3]