NYFW: visions of blackness at Pyer Moss SS19
Pyer Moss isn’t a household name but Robin Givhans’ Washington Post write-up spells out all the reasons why it’s the standout show of NYFW so far. Designer Kerby Jean-Raymond coralled a number of messages into one important and fantastic collection that I predict will be snapped up by buyers and collectors instantly.
As Givhans describes, Jean-Raymond expressed his vision of American blackness, not as ‘other’, but in the everyday sense of black culture. Shirts, dresses and cagoules were printed or embroidered with artist Derrick Adams’ portrayals of barbecues, weddings and fatherly love, all serenaded by a 40-piece gospel choir.
Activist slogans have become an anodyne fashion trend in recent seasons, but Pyer Moss’s versions were powerful: ‘Stop calling 911 on the culture’ embroidered on a plain white tee, and ‘See us now?’ on a cummerbund. (Buy the tee now, HERE.)
Another cool move: a collab with 90s ‘urbanwear’ brand FUBU (who knew that stood for ‘For Us By Us’?). And a second collab with Reebok, highlighting a collaborative entrepreneurial spirit. But it’s the poignant but uplifting summer cookout shirt that I’d really love to get my hands on…
WORDS: Disneyrollergirl/Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Landon Nordeman for The New York Times; Vogue Runway
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