One to watch: Alexis Martial at Iceberg

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Before we head into Menswear Month, here’s my tip for stealth womenswear revival of the year. Iceberg is one of those brands (like Versace, Kenzo, Moschino) which once enjoyed quite the youthful cult following. Things went off the boil for a while but now there’s a new creative director in place.

Alexis Martial (previously at Givenchy and Paco Rabanne) showed collections for SS14 and Resort 2014 that ticked a lot of ‘want list’ boxes. The kind of structured, sporty separates that are coming to define the decade were delivered in icy pastels with manga-style applique that will translate well to the high street (Martial called it “a Boy Scout on a dreamed visit to Tokyo”). Add to that, hi-tech fabrics, asymmetric layers, tomboyish styling, a graphic print or two and an overall youthful attitude that will hopefully capture the hearts of the international MCM-Kenzo-Givenchy set.

Personally, for me it’s all about the sheer-panelled knit ‘sweatshirts’ and sporty bombers which I got to see at the Purple PR press day. The mirror leather bags look promising too…

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