Interesting news that Hedi Slimane has left Dior Homme. The genius designer has been making too many demands on LVMH and so they’ve passed the baton to Kris van Assche from Belgium. Like the demise of Helmut Lang and Jil Sander, this marks the end of an era. Even if Slimane decides to launch his own label I doubt it will be remembered in the same way as Hedi Slimane For Dior Homme. During his time at Dior, Slimane pioneered a whole new lean and youthful silhouette for men, much like Giorgio Armani did with his unstructured menswear in the eighties. Collectors, best start snapping up those remaining bits of Dior Homme, they will be like gold dust from now on.
I’m morbidly fascinated by the new autumn/winter 07 Prada collection. It’s so awkward and ugly and unflattering, yet Miuccia’s influence is so great, the looks will undoubtedly filter down in a less extreme form and change the direction of fashion. Ditto Marc Jacobs. I hated his spring/summer 07 collections for Marc Jacobs and Louis Vuitton, yet he clearly knows what he’s doing so there’s no question they will have an influence on future fashion. I can but (begrudgingly) put my reservations aside and trust that it will all become clear in time…
Today’s news: Banana Republic is coming to London – to the old Dickins & Jones store. I can’t say it appeals to me (a more spendy version of Gap? No ta) and it seems other people think the same. I wonder how it will do?
In the meantime, I hear Phoebe Philo has been quietly designing for Gap. Of course, she has been paid thousands to do this and her influence can already be seen in the spring and high summer collections. The evidence? Lots of preppie-ish cottons, dresses and fine knits in a muted palette and some fabulous (but rather expensive) bags.