Designers

Art of the trench: Lahssan



The only benefit of having a dentist in Battersea is that the journey home inevitably involves the reward of a quick shifty in The Shop at Bluebird. In yesterday’s case, that ‘quick shifty’ amounted to a good 45 minutes. The buyers have upped their game by a huge leap this season and I’m told it’s looking even better for ss11.

I make no secret of the fact that I’m a big fan anyway. Maybe it’s that artfully presented mix of clothing (both obscure and established), books, furniture, magazines, music and knick knacks that always keeps my eyes darting in ten directions at once, but each visit allows for a new discovery. This time I fell in love with the clever trench coats by Lahssan. The capsule collection is simply a series of cropped trench coats with silk ‘fur-printed’ linings that feel beautiful and make for an interesting layering of textures and optical illusions. I couldn’t find much information online about Lahssan but I know he’s also stocked in Colette. I’d call that a name to watch…

[Images: The Shop at Bluebird, The Sartorialist]



Twisted sister



One of my favourite men’s knitwear brands has finally taken the plunge and created a womenswear line. Sister by SIBLING is the outcome, an exclusive women’s knitwear collection for Topshop. As SIBLING’s Joe Bates told me, “We have been hounded to do a women’s versions of the main SIBLING line since day one so when we were approached by Topshop, it felt perfect to be able to get something for the girls out there and at a good price. SIBLING always was to be as inclusive as possible. Anyone can be a SIBLING if they want; like Coca Cola, it’s very democratic.” Sister by SIBLING for Topshop goes in store next week at £95 apiece. Get a load of these lairy, outsized animal-prints to whet your appetite…



Karlheinz Weinberger



Next season is looking to welcome a much-needed upbeat, disco-dazzling theme if all the YSL, Studio 54 and Bowie glam rock references are to be believed. I’m well up for a bit of disco-luxe in my life but equally I appeciate a grungy, mis-spent youth undercurrent. Which is generously being supplied by one JW Anderson. I was glad to see The Fashion Editor At Large’s post-LFW blog post on the young designer, where he discusses the influences for his SS11 collection – namely acid trips, young love and the work of photographers Willian Gedney and Karlheinz Weinberger.

Although Gedney is a new name for me, Weinberger is not. Like Joseph Szabo’s pictures of teenagers in the 70s/80s and Joseph Sterling’s studies of adolescents in the late 50s, Weinberger’s images of 1960s Swiss biker kids have had a wide reaching influence amongst contemporary photographers, fashion designers, stylists and other creatives. You can see why can’t you?

One of my favourite Corrine Day images for Vogue has the unmistakable imprint of a Weinberger classic…

KARLHEINZ WEINBERGER

CORRINE DAY

The highly collectible Karlheinz Weinberger book published in 2000 is now fetching silly money on Amazon but thankfully Rizzoli is on standby with a new 200-pager, Rebel Youth, set to launch in March 2011. Maybe we’ll get an exhibition as well?