AW 09 trend report – press day highlights: Calvin Klein, Matches, Hermes



It’s been non-stop this week so pardon my scrappy blogging. Highlights have been plentiful though, including the Calvin Klein classics collection sunglasses launch (yeah, I know it’s not really AW, but I like to be contrary). The nineties are officially the next decade to be plundered – these shades revisit designs that originally came out in 1992 according to the press release.

I’m all for it. Classic beatnik-esque sunglasses are a welcome break from bug-eyes and Ray-Ban wannabes as far as I”m concerned. We were also invited to pick a pair we liked which is always jolly nice. I chose these:

The goody bag was ultra-generous too – a CK tote brimming over with flip flops, bikini and CK One fragrance. (Shame they couldn’t have thrown in a wee holiday as well…)

Matches was brilliant and interesting as ever. I spotted a real-fur-that-looks-fake Helmut Lang gilet but don’t think the buyer much liked my observation which came across as ‘why buy a cheap fake when you can buy an expensive one?’. Oops.

Then there was a real fur that looked real, on the collar of an Elizabeth & James jacket.

This is essentially a classic wool blazer with a detachable fur collar/lining. Whether you like fur or not is immaterial, you can’t deny that this is functional, problem-solving design. I only wish more fashion could be as practical – I’m still waiting for someone to invent an evening dress that adjusts to your temperature (note to self: find out if Stone Island does evening dresses). Goody bag was a chocolate shoe with a £50 Matches voucher and the new Matches magazine which I always love. What I learnt: 1) Matches has a new shoe label called Mechante of London. J’adore these boots…

(Er, you can’t see them very well. Double click to enlarge – they have a sexy gold zip at the back.)

2) Joanna Sykes is the new head designer for Matches’ own label, Freda. Sykes, known for her use of sequins in unexpected places (ie sportswear), has cut a mean collection of minimalist luxe basics with the eye of a perfectionist. Good choice!

Lots of loveliness as to be expected at Hermes. Quizzed the PR about the booming popularity of mens scarves and she showed me some that are exclusive shapes for men that are easier to tie. Loved the pack of how-to-tie-your-scarf cards that were nestling in the goody bag.

Also went gaga over these:






Friday fun




I know it’s naughty but I haven’t been to the Hussein Chalayan exhibition at the Design Museum yet. Is that really bad? Oh well. On Friday that might change as the Design Museum hosts Eureka Night, an evening of creative fun and idea-sharing. I’m particularly looking forward to the accessories workshop with Fred Butler and Piers Atkinson. Tickets are a mere £5 in advance which I think is well cheap for 4 hours of entertainment.

On the subject of the Design Museum, I’m itching to know more about the rumour that the Design Museum is moving to the Commonwealth Institute. Anyone know anything? I’m hoping it’s true as it’s closer to home than Shad Thames and I have a particular soft spot for the building. Not really because of the architecture (OK, I like that too) but I spent many lunchtimes in my teens hanging out there as it was at the bottom of the hill from my school. Once me and my friend Tara spent a week raiding chocolate from a faulty vending machine. Well, wouldn’t you do the same if your 20p kept coming back out of the slot with the Curly Wurly/Twix/Kit Kat? Oh, that reminds me, if the Design Museum does move west, will the Konditor and Cook cafe move too? These are the questions I will be seeking answers to on Friday…

http://www.designmuseum.org/design-overtime



When You’re A Boy






A friend of mine does a very good impression of Mary Portas which mostly consists of him making emphatic hand gestures and saying in an urgently enthusiastic voice, “now I’m excited…” The phrase sprang into my head a couple of days ago on reading a piece in Arena Homme Plus about a new exhibition opening at the Photographers’ Gallery in July. When You’re A Boy celebrates the work of stylist Simon Foxton, a bit of a behind-the-scenes hero, well known in menswear fashion circles but pretty unknown otherwise. Foxton’s skill at marrying classic menswear with sportswear, nicely rounded off with the odd flourish has made him one of the most influential stylists working today. 

Annoyingly, there’s hardly anything on the internet about this exhibition, not even on the Photographers’ Gallery’s own site. However, I did find a wee snippet here which has all the relevant information, plus this great interview on Showstudio by my good friend James Anderson (but I don’t know how old it is). 

The exhibition is from 17 July – 4 October 2009 and will take an in-depth look into Foxton’s work through a range of photographic prints by his collaborators (Nick Knight, Jason Evans, Alasdair McLellan) as well as image installations and – most excitingly for me – Foxton’s scrapbooks. I imagine there should be some good talks and workshops going on nearer the time as well. 

[Pics: Jason Evans]