Business of fashion

Snippets



Today has been a complete whirlwind so I’m speed-blogging to get it all down.

Breakfast with Tiffany
9am Brekkie at Automat with a very blog-savvy PR. Lots to discuss including the importance of brands to have a two-way conversation with consumers online.

First look at APC
1030am Love that familiar signature candle scent on first entering the new Dover Street store and I immediately eyeballed all the shirts, wedges and belts. Welcome back to London APC!

Murdock opens store no 3
1045am Just a stone’s throw from APC in Dover Street was the latest Murdock luxury barbers (5B Stafford Street, W1). These guys have cornered the market in high end (but not poncy) male grooming. Alongside the trad barbers service, they offer a lovely retail experience, especially if you’re a girl gift-buying for a fussy discerning guy. When I asked to have a nose round, I was invited to have a look upstairs, even though ‘it’s not finished yet’ and my host also revealed that Scott Schuman had recently enjoyed the Murdock experience. Didn’t surprise me one bit, this place is a must-visit for all sartorialists.




Falling back in love with LK Bennett
1130am: As I was in Bond Street, I decided to give Fenwick the once over including a mini- tour of LK Bennett. Wow, it’s suddenly totally right for now. I liked the high-on-the-instep Mary Janes (Selina, £155), roundtoe courts in an array of heel heights (Sabira, £130, Shilo, £140) and red low-heel pumps (Samedi £125) to go with crop skinny jeans and ankle socks. Nice work LKB.




Short Cuts
12pm This Uniqlo window caught my eye – same-day instore alterations. Me likey.
Daily Candy and arm candy
3pm After more meetings and lunch I headed to Fashion Business Club to take in an interview with DailyCandy.com‘s London editor Malika Dalamal. Daily Candy is looking into encouraging feedback from its readers via comments which I think is a very good thing indeed as it harnesses the community spirit and keeps the punters coming back. Post-interview I caught up with a number of fashion people including accessory designer, Quentin MacKay. I first met MacKay years ago when he had designed some very simple black leather wristbands and I had bought one (I think it was when Browns Focus had just opened). I still have it today and was pleased to discover that following successful stints at Tanner Krolle and Samsonite Black, MacKay has now launched a luxury accessory line under his own name – it’s the real deal, have a look here.


Miss Selfridge introduces the three-way collab




Another day, another seen-it-before high street collaboration, or so I thought. But when I rocked up to the Hed Kandi for Miss Selfridge launch I got a pleasant surprise. There in front of me was a new idea! I kid you not, Miss Selfridge has embraced an original take on the collab theme – hooking up two brands that genuinely have the same audience via an illustrator rather than yet another celebrity-in-inverted-commas. The three-way hook-up, it’s the future I tell you!

Do I sound jaded? I guess I’m just a little bit over the bandwagon-jumping of the ‘Fearne Cotton/Peaches Geldof/insert any other name here designs exclusive collection’ ilk, complete with predictable interview quote of ‘I couldn’t find anything I wanted to wear so I designed my own’. Snore. Instead, we have the creator of Hed Kandi’s iconic club babes (you know the ones, their almond eyes and lithe figures are all over the London Underground) designing a collection with the Miss Selfridge team inspired by the girls on the record CD covers. 

Not only are the ten dresses suitably sexy and body-con – perfect for the target Ibiza-loving audience – but the prints are all inspired by the graphics on various Hed Kandi compilations so everything ties very nicely together. The Hed Kandi girls are almost a story in themselves. Illustrator Jason Brooks has been sketching these long-limbed lovelies since 1999 and over the years has managed to keep up with fashion yet transcend it at the same time – no mean feat. Apart from anything else, I’m a massive fan of fashion illustration but beyond that, I love a clever marketing concept and this one is genius. Pats on backs all round…


It’s here! When You’re a Boy…(spoiler alert!)



Apologies for the protracted absence, I’ve been flat out working 15 hour days on a shampoo commercial coinciding with a run of ‘Christmas-in-July’ press days. I’m pooped!

Anyway, Simon Foxton’s much anticipated exhibition, When You’re a Boy was finally unveiled yesterday at The Photographers’ Gallery. The menswear stylist has worked with Penny Martin to create an insightful exhibition which shows the different sides of his arresting work. What attracts me to Foxton’s work? I think it’s the always-human element present in his styling. Much of it is portraity and the work that isn’t will have a humorous or playful element or be somehow more than about just the clothes and more about the character. I guess I like his street casting a whole lot too.

My favourite Foxton i-D shoot, ‘Strictly,’ featuring a boyish Edward Enninful poses ‘questions about ethnicity, Englishness and masculinity’ and looks as fresh today as it did when it was first published in 1991.



The wall of framed portraits by a range of different photographers provides a genius personal touch – I love the one of the boy in double denim with his back pockets overflowing with colourful bandanas (no close-up unfortunately, I didn’t want to ruin the surprise).

In the centre of the room is a long glass cabinet housing Foxton’s precious scrapbooks which I decided to save til last. Ever the scrapbook fiend, this for me is a crucial part of an exhibition like this and I’m glad Penny Martin as curator decided the scrapbooks were worthy of inclusion. As with photographer Tim Walker’s scrapbooks and sketchbooks, it shows something of the artist’s inspiration and creative thought process. Apart from this, it’s fascinating to be reminded of long-lost male faces from the 80s fashion scene and rather sweet to see Foxton’s ballet ticket stubs and 80s club flyers so neatly archived.


For those interested, there is a programme of accompanying events. Check on The Photographers’ Gallery website for info.

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