Jaeger gets it right



While Burberry continues to profit on its £2600 handbags (profits are up an astounding 31%), an altogether quieter relaunch is going on elsewhere in British heritage-land. Since the arrival of CEO Belinda Earl from Debenhams in 2004, the Jaeger brand has taken baby steps to haul its name into the 21st century and it looks like success could be theirs at last. Reviving a heritage brand is no walk in the park. You have to keep the traditional customers happy while trying to tempt a new generation of shoppers who, if they have £200 knocking about in their bank account would rather spend it in D & G or Marc than a fuddy duddy label their grandmother used to wear.

An attempt a few years ago to reposition the brand had Jaeger calling on the skills of Bella Freud as a consultant. As lovely as her logoed cashmere knits were, they proved a shade too directional for the genteel Jaeger customer so Freud was shown the door and the ball was set in motion again. What Jaeger has done this time around is focus the brand on four collections under the Jaeger umbrella. The main ‘Jaeger’ range is fairly safe, aimed at the old school customer who likes what the label stands for – class, quality and easy-to-coordinate pieces. ‘Jaeger London’ is the fashion-forward (but not too scary) collection which for spring/summer 2008 is big on ikat prints, Marni-esque embellishment, a bold fuchsia and black colour combo and a strong stripe that owes a nod to Missoni without blatant copying. Then – crucially – there is ‘Jaeger Limited’ which is a stepping stone between ‘Jaeger’ and ‘Jaeger London’. This features some of the prints from ‘Jaeger London’ but in simpler shapes so the older customer can feel the younger influence while keeping within their comfort zone. And then ‘Jaeger Black’ is the high end range featuring £250 chiffon blouses and forties tailoring for the confident customer who wants quality and class as well as a contemporary cut, but is happy with what Jaeger stands for and doesn’t feel the urge to upgrade to a ‘proper’ designer label.

What I think is clever and what is so hard to do is that Jaeger has covered all its bases. You can see the older glamour-type shopper here (think Helen Mirren) as well as her wannabe cousin (Barbara Windsor). You can picture your Erin O’Connors and Laura Baileys in the chiffon star prints that are on sale now (a revisited version of a Bella Freud print that Kate Moss has popularised) while the style-savvy up and comer who likes to be a bit different (Alexa Chung, Daisy Lowe) might also cherry pick a bag or a scarf – the accessories are as well thought out as the clothes. In time, especially if the celebrity take-up is high, they’ll get the WAG contingent as Burberry did, although this can be a curse as much as a blessing. Jaeger has even got a head start in ecommerce – its online store www.jaeger.co.uk was launched recently – something that not many big brands have properly delved into yet. Time will tell just how successful this revival is, but on the strength of what they’ve shown so far, it looks like Jaeger is finally back on track.



Who knew?




I’ve got a new style crush and it’s not a he or a she but… a boot. Yes, I’ve just found out that those funny western boots that are a bit like cowboy boots but without the cuban heel and pointy toe have got a proper name. My WhoWhatWearDaily.com newsletter tells me these beauties are called roper boots. And suddenly they’re everywhere.

Five reasons to love Roper boots:

1. They’re understated but when kicked about have that inherent cool quality that you don’t get from cowboy boots (too in-your-face) or biker boots (too this season).

2. They’re practical without being ugly and they’re a breeze to walk in, having originally been designed for rodeo events where running is as much a requirement as riding.

3. They’re a welcome change from Converse with jeans.

4. They fit in perfectly with my androgynous aesthetic.

5. They’re already available at Office (‘Foxy Horserider’ boots) for £85.

The downside? Everyone’s wearing them.

Pic: www.whowhatweardaily.com



Cavalli Countdown




Is anyone waiting with baited breath for tomorrow? Roberto Cavalli’s animal print fest is set to drop at H & M and I for one can’t make my mind up. From what I’ve seen it really is a jungle of flammable leopard print and clingy Lycra jersey but in amongst the horror is a gold pleated Oscar-worthy gown (£199) and a fake fur chubby (£49.99) for wannabe Siennas.

Animal print is really hard to get right. Call me a frump but the print itself is wild enough without adding sheer, clingy or mini to the mix. For me, leopard spots and tiger stripes work best downplayed in a casual slouchy tee, a pair of high-top trainers or skinny jeans in an early-80s post-punk statement. ‘Sexy’ animal print is just too obvious unless you’re rocking a vintage fur coat and throw it on over something scruffy and even then you need the face of an angel to pull it off. As for leopard-print bustiers, sheer cardigans and kick-flare pants, they’re strictly for the suburban slag contingent. And Nancy Dell’Olio.



The Power of Marketing






Uniqlo has opened a new Oxford Street flagship store and revamped one further up the road and boy do they want you to know about it. I popped into the opening last night and a bigger fash bash I haven’t seen in a very long time. The store was wall-to-wall models and I don’t mean the naff Kimberley Stewart variety. I’m talking about uber-cool club kids with messy hair and shabby-chic outfits. I arrived towards the end so I missed the live band but there was plenty of DJ action and ‘look at me’ dancing, not to mention celebrity style eye candy in the form of Alexa Chung and The Kills’ Alison Mosshart.

While the guests were mostly interested in the free flowing cocktails, I thought it would be polite to check out the clothes. As I thought, it’s still all cashmere sweaters and badly-cut trousers with the odd directional piece thrown in (I saw a tweed cape). But really it’s all about the marketing and Uniqlo are streets ahead of Gap on this count. From the too cool party crowd to the collectable Uniqlo magazine full of gorgeous photos depicting aforementioned models styled by Dazed stylist Nicola Formachetti, perception of the brand is everything. A bash like this costs a fortune to produce but when the results will be on pap pages in every daily paper and in next Tuesday’s issues of Grazia, Look and Heat, as far as Uniqlo is concerned it’s worth every yen.