An invigorating, palate-cleansing debut from Yang Li at Shang Xia SS22 yesterday.
The Beijing-born, Australia-raised designer showed his futuristic luxury vision for gen-2050 in a quest to put Chinese design centre stage. “It’s like imagining an empty chair at a round table of luxury fashion brands that should be for a Chinese representative. What a great mission to embark on. We’re going to give it our best go,” Li told Vogue.
As a breather from the maximalist showbiz of Fashion Month so far, we saw 90s-flavoured unlined leather coats and flat-front pants with signature Yang Li cape-detail dresses in fabrics that look deceptively simple from afar but I’m sure are ravishing when seen – and felt – in the flesh. Offsetting the sleek black separates were pops of neon orange and yellow on waistbands, box bags and surprisingly wearable trousers. The cool-girl casting and minimalist styling added to the appeal for me, not least as Joe McKenna was styling the show. (more…)
Until this point, Shang Xia has exemplified the quiet luxury vibe of Hermès, focusing on ‘good taste’ craftsmanship and style designed for longevity. But as hype culture accelerates in the luxury space, some wonder if we’ll now see the brand looking to attract a younger, cooler crowd. Definitely one to watch. (more…)
Here’s the latest weekly DRG STYLE INDEX ranking, a round-up of the brands currently buzzing on my radar…
1. WOOD WOOD WARPS DISNEY ICON
Get ready for a very cool Disney collaboration with Danish brand Wood Wood coming to London. Wood Wood chose to stretch and distort classic 30s cartoons of Mickey Mouse, printing the designs on clothes and accessories for men and women. The prints are quite subversive so I’m surprised Disney gave it the go ahead – it’s known for being extremely protective of the brand’s imagery. (more…)
More news on the Hermès front following my rant last week.
According to CPP-Luxury, the Hermès group will launch a new brand aimed at the Chinese market in 2010. The lower-priced brand called Shang Xia will be made using traditional Chinese materials and techniques to take advantage of the new Chinese luxury consumer.
This chimes with research I have recently undertaken on the luxury market for the next decade. Heritage and authenticity is something that luxury brands will be focusing on, moving away from the noughties version of luxury that was more to do with brand names and status than the quality and craftsmanship of the goods. This is certainly a brand to watch as if it does well, others are sure to follow.